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MOT failure on emissions


bluespeed

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'Cars only have one lambda sensor. Previous poster probably moved it to collector for better mix but left old one to plug hole.'

 

I have both one in the down pipe and one in the collector, which is the best position or does it not matter?

 

Mine is plugged in to the collector Lambda.

Simon N

 

PS. From Posts sounds like I may struggle to get through MOT (even though it flew through last year) ☹️

 

PPS. Removal of pipes is easy with a 3/8th drive, flexi joint and a extended deep socket. Took me no time at all last night. 1/2" is too big to get in to the space available.

 

 

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The story continues...to resolve any potential air leaks from the exhaust system and get her through the MOT.

 

The exhaust has been successfully re installed with a new gasket, all gaps sealed & nuts tightened, lambda sensor plugged in so all ready to go... well ere not quite. She now will not start ☹️

 

After lots of attempts there is no smell of fuel so I will check all the fuses at the weekend as something is stopping the engine starting.

 

Who said owning a Caterham is all speed and excitement! *confused*

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the helpful advice, I can only think in wriggling the exhaust pipes back into position I must have touched something and blown a fuse (the isolator was in the off position but that is no guarantee) as the battery was connected. I will grab a DVM and check it out. *confused*

 

The last resort will be a trip on the trailer to the helpful guys at Allon White in Cranfield .

 

Ps. Just to clear up the Lambda issue, my car has two placed in different positions in the exhaust system but with only one plugged in at a time!

 

 

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Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: 
Check inertia switch ... press top of switch to reset it.

 

Check fuse for ECU (should now be 30A ... was 20A) and for fuel pump.

 

Does fuel pump whirr when you turn ignition on ?

 

Are you un-immobilising it ok ?

 

Top fault finding tips - had problems with 20A fuse for ECU previously but 30A cured it.

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I can I suggest that you check the fuse for the Dash Instruments - certaily for my Sigma Powered 7 (I know your's is a K series), when the fuse blew for the dash whilst we were on the IOM, the ECU could no longer "see" one of the instruments it was connected to and shut down either the fuel pump or the injectors (I can't remember which)

 

The give away on my 7 was that when I unimmobilised the car, whilst the flashing red immobiliser light went off, the speedo and tacho needles didn't do their usual little "jiggle" that they always do.

 

New instrument fuse = jiggling dials = running engine!

 

(It took a trip on a low loader and the removal of the rear wheel to discover the frayed wires on the speedo sensor cable that blew fuse in the 1st palce)

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Simon

 

If it helps, there was some useful advice on this thread, which I started when my R300 K did not start last year. It was John (BIO) who correctly diagnosed the problem as a wire loose in the grey connector (which you should not have gone anywhere near during your recent mechanicing.

 

Ben

 

 

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Any update Bluespeed?

 

Went out for a blat with Huwp this morning and he commented that following my car it smells very rich. Of course I knew this but it begs the question why are our K series cars on RBTBs mapped so rich?

 

Still at a loss as to what I do with my car.... 😔

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Evening all

 

ECU etc tested on lap top by Rob (Boss Racing) this am. Throttle potentiometer ok (looked like a reading of 0.43 - which I seem to recall mentioned previously. Temp sender ok although dashboard gauge reading 20 deg lower than water.

Lambda sensor failed to react at tickover - temp replacement did ok

 

New Lambda bought from auto factor (Rover part MHK 10006 - has square ended connector) apparently Dartford parts say could be square or flat with rounded ends (guess which one I bought first). Fitting should be easy.

 

Advice from Rob is sensor should be just ahead of Cat so it picks up all four pipes rather than just in rear down pipe. Having tried to remove old (dud) sensor am tempted to leave and just cut off wires - perhaps that is how the two sensor look started!

 

Rob also adjusted the roller barrels to synchronise fully - only a little out.

 

Time (and an emissions test) will tell if successful.

 

Tally ho

 

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MOT passed and then the sun came out! *cool*

 

The new sensor has done the trick

 

Engine now much smoother although I still think it could be improved as still a little rich

 

Thanks to fellow Blatchatters and big thanks to Rob at Boss Racing (awesome red racing TVR) and Andy B at Tech 7.

 

Tally Ho

 

 

 

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I realise a lot of people have chipped in to this thread but just to add, I've booked my car into Northampton Motorsport to be looked at by Troy next week. It was originally remapped by them so I'll report back after they've seen it. Hopefully it will shed some light on the issues we all seem to be having *thumbup*
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Fantastic, Simon. Great news.

 

I am wondering what to do about my rich running.

 

I was planning on taking the car to the two Steves at some point, for a mapping session. However, there's no point doing that if the real reason for the rich running is the exhaust sealing or a faulty lambda.

 

I'll have a look at my exhaust manifold today, but I'm wondering - is there any easy way to test if my lambda sensor is working correctly (save for buying a new one)? I know that my throttle bodies are aligned and the throttle pot is OK (checked end of last year).

 

🤔

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