Area Representative nickhi Posted March 20, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted March 20, 2013 Day one of build not off to a flying start.... Difficulty with the Upper (and Lower) wishbones. How do you keep them horizontal to Torque them correctly. Once torqued LHS seems to be drooping down and RHS skyward !! How important at this stage is it to have them horizontal and how accurate?? Second question does the Headlamp bracket sit inside the bodywork or outside? I have situated it outside but doesn't seem to look right. Looking at other build diaries there seems to be different types of bracket. Mine was marked Headlamp Bracket EU4. Will try and get up with technology and post some pictures if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 You don't torque any suspension until it is sitting on the wheels on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative nickhi Posted March 20, 2013 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 20, 2013 Ah!!! The build manual says to Torque the wishbones after fitting them and before the Spring Dampers are fitted as access is blocked by other components (I guess the Spring Damper unit).... Nickhi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 I'm pretty sure you can get to all the fixings with a spanner and a torque wrench after everything is fitted? Anyway, it's important to get it right as otherwise the bushes won't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted March 20, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted March 20, 2013 Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: You don't torque any suspension until it is sitting on the wheels on the ground. And with the engine etc in situ to load up the system. Tighten bolts up so they without play and then torque them at the end as SM25T says Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 You will get different views on this. Some say you cannot torque until on the ground as you need the full weight on the car to ensure they are horisantle. Personally when I built mine I got them as horisantle as I could by holding them at 90 degrees to the car and torquing them up to keep them that way when i was at the same build point as you. Key thing is that when it is finally built and on the ground they are still horisantle as this minimizes bump steer. Not sure what model you are building but my headlamp brackets went on top of the damper and pointed out. Hint, run a mouse wire down through it and tie off at each end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative nickhi Posted March 20, 2013 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 20, 2013 Thanks for the tip re mouse wire Pugwash. I think I've discovered my Headlamp Brackets are the Lower type and should be fitted under the bodywork at the mounting. I'll try to keep the wishbones as horizontal as possible and check again when finished. Thanks for all the advice. Just hoping next few stages go smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 On my recent build I torqued the wishbones up when I fitted them as per the revised assembly guide. Easy to hold them horizontal while you do it. Take care with headlamp stays, one if the fiddly bits - you have to put a grommet in the hole on the chassis side and thread the headlamp wires (sleeved in heat shrink) through the tube and a grommet at the upper end as well as the grommet in the chassis side. Not easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Having had the pleasure ( ) of pulling old headlamp wires out and trying to thread new ones through the original (then approx 6-year old) headlamp supports, it may be a good idea to spray inside the supports with something like ACF50 anti-corrosion fluid while they are new ? Maybe the new design isn't such a small bore tube, so long, or have such a tight bend .... but .... Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 21 Mar 2013 07:58:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 New design is much more awkward the the old version and the IVA requirements make it almost impossible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Agreed that the lower brackets are a challenge. However, You don't need to feed the heat shrink through the tube. You just need enough to disappear into the top grommet, feed the wires through individually using the mouse line first, and where the wires appear through into the engine compartment, use the rest of the heat shrink you cut off originally to just poke through the grommet so it looks like its continuous but its not really. Tip from CC. Good enough to pass IVA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted March 22, 2013 Leadership Team Share Posted March 22, 2013 The grommet situation with the lowered headlight brackets was a nightmare as Steve says. For the top I ended up getting the wires through, putting some sleeving on, cutting a grommet flat and superglueing it on then feeding the sleeving down through the grommet (with the help of some lube). IVA'd ok last June and has not moved or dislodged in the subsequent 5500 miles. For the bottom, fit the grommet before you bolt the bracket on as it sits inside and you will struggle to get it placed once fitted. There is just about enough room to work the cables through. I must be sad, I quite enjoyed the challenge of sorting that lot out 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 In the end I cut the pins off the wires, put proper heatshrink on, threaded it all through the grommets and brackets, then fitted the bracket onto the car. I bought an econoseal crimp tool and fitted new pins. PITA but not the most challenging part of the build Some pictures of when I did my headlamps here and here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Excellent. Three builders, three different solutions. Aren't these cars great! It's not a build, more of a great big puzzle to be solved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Oops, wrong post Edited by - Grubbster on 22 Mar 2013 22:07:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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