Rob Board Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 Hello Again, Just bought a battery conditioner from Banner batteries for the winter. It comes with the option to "Hard Wire" the push fit connector to the car, instead of using the croc clips. However where is the best place to route/site the cable? Secondly my handbook say DO NOT connect a croc clip to the battery negative terminal, instead when charging use a suitable earth point on the chasis. Why? and would this still apply when wiring in the conditioner. The car is a new Roadsport 1.8 X power 140BHP Your helpful advice as ever is greatly anticipated Cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 ROB i have the same conditioner as yourself . i have installed a cigarette lighter just next to the fuse box under the dash, and used the conector that came with the charger to give a direct feed from the battery, i split the + wire and installed a fues inline this works fine if you want i will post a photo in about one hour on line if this will help . quote handbook say DO NOT connect a croc clip to the battery negative terminal this is only refers to a charger with a larger ouput as this may damage the alternator no need for you to worry about this with the banner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 Rob I have an Airflow battery conditioner. I fitted a panel mount socket to the scuttle under the fuse box, wired direct to the battery terminals (with a 4A fuse in the +ve line as close to the battery as possible). The connectors I used are actually audio connectors, but the current for a battery conditioner is quite low so they are up to the job. The ones I used were XLR type - Maplin part numbers KC53H (panel mount female) and KC58N (free plug male). I've used these succesfully for about a year now and they are a neat installation - this location is fairly easy to connect/disconnect (ie you don't have to take the bonnet off) but they are also fairly out of sight. I think the reason for the handbook not recommending connecting the negative of a charger to the battery itself is that you can get a spark on attaching the second lead which could (theoretically) ignite gases given off by the battery - hence connect +ve to battery first and then -ve to some remote part of the chassis or engine. If you hard-wire the charger connections this is no longer a problem - any spark created would be well away from the battery. Dave Edited by - Dave McCulloch on 14 Nov 2002 19:30:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Board Posted November 14, 2002 Author Share Posted November 14, 2002 Fred, a photo would be great. Ta Very Much Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 photo sent Edited by - fred on 15 Nov 2002 20:46:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Board Posted November 14, 2002 Author Share Posted November 14, 2002 Fred, Thanx very much, I shall crack on and fit at the weekend. Cheers Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 The XLR connectors are more than up to the job. Some Audio equipment use them for the mains feed as well. I would have thought that if you are going to hard wire it in, then a useful addition might be a diode in the +ve feed so that the socket is neutral when not being used for charging. That way, a short circuit becomes irrelevant. Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Graham I wouldn't use a diode as the conditioner works by monitoring the battery voltage fairly accurately, and a diode results in a 0.7V drop - this may confuse the conditioner into trying to overcharge the battery. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Exactly why i did not fit one DAVE. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve hunt Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Fred Went to start the Seven this morning and the batteriy is flat. Think I need a banner. Will ring them tommorow. Do you know if it is also a boost charger to kick it back into life? Can you send me your photos please re permanent wiring . Steve Steve Hunt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted November 17, 2002 Share Posted November 17, 2002 Steve YHM . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 I've got an Airflow which I just bought at the classic show last weekend, neat piece of kit. I was under the impression that you should loosen the cell screws on the top of the battery during use ( which is stated in the instructions ) which was one reason why I did'nt bother wiring in a permanent set-up as you obviously have to lift the bonnet each time to re-tighten can anybody advice me on this. cheers Phil 😬 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Phil, I've had an Airflow for the last 2 years which is permanently connected via a plug & dash mounted socket and have never loosened the cell caps. It has not given me any problems in that time and the battery is always charged ready for use. Personally I wouldn't bother with loosening the caps unless it was a completely flat battery being charged. Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted November 18, 2002 Share Posted November 18, 2002 Cheers Brent I think I'll change to a fixed in set up, it certainly would be much easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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