darren f Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 (I’m sure this has been covered before, but a Search didn’t come up with definitive answer………). Car is R300 with dry sump, the assembly guide states ‘with all variants the engine oil should be filled via the screw cap on top of the engine…..’. Do I recall correctly that the Blatchat consensus is that you fill the bellhousing tank? If so, the bellhousing looks like it will only take a couple of litres or so, so where do I put in the other 2.5 litres required- engine or top up bellhousing as you go (in a sweaty panic in case it runs out )? Also, I was going to use a reasonable quality semi-synthetic 10 or 15W-40 for the initial fill and 500 miles- good idea or it is necessary to look at a mineral oil for the run-in period? All good advice gratefully accepted......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 The bellhousing will take 5 odd litres, but overfilling will cause whatever excess the system "doesn't want" to exit into your catch tank. This is the approved method for finding the correct level. You'll probably find it'll want no more than 4.5 litres in total. Do as it says, fill up via the bellhousing, but crank the engine over without starting it the first time, until oil pressure is established. It takes longer than you might think. Up to 20 seconds for some people. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 It'll do no harm to put the last liter into the filler cap in the top of the engine, but most of the oil needs to be in the bell housing tank. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren f Posted November 13, 2002 Author Share Posted November 13, 2002 Thanks guys, its as I thought- bell-housing tank takes priority. One quick thought- where is the oil pressure sender on a dry sumped car- I'd like to make sure this is connected so I have some indication of oil pressure when cranking it over. Also, any ideas on the type / spec of initial oil ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Panks Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 I was advised on mineral oil and used a pretty basic oil (Castrol or whatever)for the first 500 miles. Small tip for cranking over for oil pressure, make sure the immobiliser is switched on, my 1.6 K took about 30secs to a minute to register ( seems like an age) One way of spinning the engine over faster if you are finding it hard to register the pressure is to take the spark plugs out, that way you areen't cranking against the engine's compression. I guess things are progressing well then Darren? Ready for next month's meet perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren f Posted November 13, 2002 Author Share Posted November 13, 2002 Steady on Ernie, one step at a time!! Things aren’t going too badly apart from a few Caterham instigated hitches (finding the clutch release fork was missing during the engine install was a good one……… ). Engine has gone in OK, although the wiring was a nightmare- required an ‘I’m an idiot, talk me through each wire individually’ type phone call with the technical line. Mind you, the wiring may still be a nightmare- it’s going to be a bit buttock-clenching when the positive lead is finally connected The grand plan is to fire her up at the weekend……….. (I'll probably be at the next Area Meeting canvassing ideas on why it won't start 😬 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 The oil pressure sender is at the front/underside of the engine and is attached to the oil filter housing. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren f Posted November 13, 2002 Author Share Posted November 13, 2002 Nice one Miraz, I thought that was it.... (I got a good look at this when it was jammed on the front chassis member during the engine install *eek*). Edited by - darren f on 13 Nov 2002 13:53:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Ernie's comment about running in on non-synth oil reminds me that you ought to check out the archives about such, as there are some quite divided opinions about this subject. There's probably enough info in there for you to make up your own mind, especially if you heed my comments. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 But I wouldn't describe Castrol as Basic.... If you want basic try Tesco's own brand.... I will acknowledge that modern engines (e.g. Honda) prefer a fully synth to anything else even if it is the same viscocity. Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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