Titanium7 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Today I have mostly been fitting a new RapFix QR Unfortunately my car had a ignition key steering lock on the upper column which complicates matters slightly. This is the order and method used. (There may be other ways) Ensure the front wheels of the car are pointing straight foward Remove, existing steering wheel + Boss Remove Bonnet, Nose Cone Undo 4 front Radiator nuts and pull radiator forward slightly Remove the upper Steering Column Clamp completely Remove the pedal box cover Undo the top bolt on the UJ steering joint and pull to long steering column rod out of the joint Thread the long column forward over the top of the rack and out between the radiator and chassis so it comes forward right out of the pedal box Ensure the steering lock is not engaged Tap firmly the top part of the column down with a similar diameter piece of bar It will push out the lower steering rubber coated bush out on the way down Replace the lower steering bush by applying a little grease/vaseline then firmly pushing it back up into the column guide (little rubber locating lugs should be vertical so they drop into the locating holes). If you have a pre welded Rapfix boss onto an upper column just thread down from inside the car and the it’s reassemble in reverse order ensuring the steering wheel is attached and upright/level before you refit the column into the lower UJ. I didn’t have the pre welded version so I removed the steering lock locating outer tube on the upper column by turning of the 4 tack welds on a lathe (could be filed off) then Mig Welded the Rapfix boss onto the top end of the column after removing approximately half of the splined portion of the upper column to shorten the column a little. Edited by - titanium7 on 1 Feb 2013 18:07:00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 1, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted February 1, 2013 Sounds like you made hard work of it. If I recall correctly, when I have done them, I have simply unfastened the sliding clamp, made sure ignition lock off and removed upper column and bush by pulling on the steering wheel using a ratchet strap fixed to the roll bar. After welding the new boss onto the column simply reassemble using new upper column bush (it's same as lower one). You may then have to centralise the steering wheel by moving the universal joint on the splines, but no need to start removing lower columns and pedal boxes. Incidentally, on my car I didn't remove the steering lock location tube, I simply made sure the upper bush was already on the column when I welded the boss onto the top of it. Doing this means you can have a removable wheel and also retain the steering lock. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Unfortunately the upper column guide on mine (metric chassis) is only around 20mm ID and has just the thin plastic bush (without rubber outer) and is not the same as the lower bush so the only way out for the upper column is downwards. The lower guide when the bush is out is a larger diameter to allow for the larger steering lock tube to pass through. Edited by - Titanium7 on 1 Feb 2013 19:01:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 1, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted February 1, 2013 Quoting Titanium7: Unfortunately the upper column guide on mine (metric chassis) is only around 20mm ID and is not the same as the lower bush so the only way out for the upper column is downwards. The lower guide when the bush is out is a larger diameter to allow for the larger steering lock tube to pass through. Edited by - Titanium7 on 1 Feb 2013 18:50:14 Well I've learnt something 😬, although I've assembled a couple of metric chassis cars and the upper and lower bushes and their apertures have been exactly the same. Seems like you have something different. The important thing is that you've done the job. I'd like to fit the Rapfix - my Racetech has an annoying bit of play. How is the position of the wheel? The Rapfix mechanism seems to be bigger meaning the wheel has to be positioned a bit further away from the dash. Have you found this a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Just waiting for my RapFix to arrive. I was anticipating a five minute job: Remove steering wheel, undo clamp, pull column out into car (it slides out very easily), replace with pre-welded RapFix top column, do up clamp, replace steering wheel. Not sure if the mounting holes on the RapFix are the same as on the current QR - if not that'll slow things down somewhat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hi Paul The RF is a quality bit of kit extremely well engineered and others who have had them for some tme say still no play. Yes it does sit back further than the fixed boss I had before but not much, probably around 10-20mm. The real benefit for me and the reason for going QR is getting in and out of the car (6' 1") which is now a lot easier. Martyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted February 1, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted February 1, 2013 Quoting Titanium7: The real benefit for me and the reason for going QR is getting in and out of the car (6' 1") which is now a lot easier. Me too - especially with half hood in place. Since got a very small wheel and that helps too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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