The quest for a lighter car.........

[AMMO]

Dunno. Luke has been going around with a lump of wood behind one of his rear lights while one of the rubber blocks is used as a pattern. Soon I hope. Ithink they will be black gel coated fibreglass. I weighed the original rubber blocks but never made a note of it, thinking I'd remember. Ithink the rubber blocks wer 500 grms each?

 

AMMO

[scooby dooby doo]

I've got a spare rubber mounting block I think....

 

HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU

[edmandsd]

With the alloy shocks on the rear and some weight coming out of the gearbox casing my absolute limit is going to be 405/410kgs I reckon. I don't think under 400kgs is possible even if I replace the rear boot cover with a carbon sheet and remove the passenger side tonneau all together.

 

Home of BDR700

[simonstevens]

be very careful removing metal from the gearbox housing, theyre not that strong to start with!!!

if youve got dry sump then you can hack some of the tube going down to the tank (where you put the oil). gearboxes are my speciality, if you want an extra 1-2bhp out of your gearbox for next to no money then email me for details!!! undertrays are very good but heat can be a problem, at the back for the brakes (right below fuel tank!!) and at the front for the engine, ali radiator first me thinks, and dont forget some mesh for a stone guard they way a little bit more than youd probably like but its better than a new radiator every time you go out!!! when you remove the heater it may not seem to weighh much but think of the drop in the amount of water!!! 1litre is approx 1kg!!if you get rid of the lights etc then make sure you get rid of the wires, also drill large holes in the rubber backing for the rear lights but make sure you plug the hole in the wing with a good gromet!! also look at led rear lights, especially for the fog light dont scrimp on honeycomb around the fuel tank, i know its heavy but it seriously reduces the chance of explosion in an accident!!!!!!! get rid of rubbers on pedals and put sticky back electric sander pads on them (trimmed nicely!!) for grip, remove speedoand tape up hole dont put a steel plate over it cos that will weigh more than the speedo!!! i could go on forever but the best thing to do is for me to make an even bigger list and email to anyone that wants it for a £1 donation to NTH email me with your email addresses and ill make it worth your while!!!!

[paul jacobs]

A couple more suggestions for the list:

 

Change the front cycle wing stays for lightweight ones, maybe ali, made up by a local engineering company

 

If you've got a standard steering wheel & boss, change it for a v. lightweight Racetec or Momo one

 

Change the standard 7" headlights for 5" ones, lighter and more aerodynamic, maybe have some ali. brackets made which can be lower too

 

The diff weighs a ton, I haven't tried it yet, but the one off a Suburu looks smaller and lighter and comes with an LSD already fitted. Don't know about the ratios though.

 

I think it's been mentioned, but the S/S stoneguards on the rear wings could go, there are various cheap stick on alternatives

 

If you've got one of the older metal 7 badges on the nosecone, change it for a plastic one.

 

Ditch the rattly plug cover.

 

Does anyone make up rollover bars which are just as strong but use lighter metal?

 

 

 

Red 245bhp Vauxhall powered 21-Now sold, back in the fold with my new 1600K Seven

[stevefoster]

Done all of the above except the lights that I take of. I don't care about blatting weight really it's competion weight thats important.

 

I am interested in the rear lamp rubber ditching. If it really is that heavy. I will make something up to replace them...

 

The 7 grille may have to go. I have the more important mesh of course.

 

For MSA approval it has to be cold drawn steel for rollcages I think. Lighter and not approved is a cheating approach... bit like the R500 bar.

 

/Steve

 

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