Damp Garage

[fireblade]

Can't you just put your tools in the cockpit?

 

:-)

 

BTW, can you put a car in the carcoon wet? If not, is it possible to put a dehumidifier in with the car and sneak the cable through a small gap? Also, any benefit in getting a bigger carcoon so the car can be placed in on it's trailer? (otherwise I'd need to use the whole double garage for trailer and car).

 

Lots of questions...

 

John Latham

[J.R.]

I used a carcoon (internal type) outside for a whole year, partially covered by a carport, in driving rain conditions a "pond" would form on the top & the water would eventually leak through the seams & collect on the base.

 

After a long period of time the base was swimming in water BUT the car was dry and suffered no corrosion whatsoever, I know this to be true because I left a strip of angle ground bare metal on the scuttle and there was not even a spot of rust.

 

It would appear that despite the significant volume of water on the floor there was no humidity to speak of above it, probably due to the movement of air across the car from the fans.

 

So to recap - Carcoon is brilliant at stopping damp and rust.

 

A well ventilated garage as described above must also have some benefits.

[felix.klauser]

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious but why not just make the whole garage a carcoon by installing a ventilation fan? Why wouldn't these achieve the same effect?

 

I think the problem isn't humidity per se but condensing humidity. This occurs when, for example, it's cold for several days and then warmer and damp. When you open the garage door and/or take the car out the warmer/damp air hits the cold metal and cold floor and condensation forms. It takes a long time to evaporate this condensation because it really isn't that warm and it is humid after all. But if a fan is constantly running to keep the temp and humidity in the garage broadly the same as outside the garage (the carcoon effect) won't the problem go away?

[alicat]

Ahhhhh *tongue*

 

Back to the ventilation fans - simple. See previous posting on fan with hunidistat built in.

 

 

 

 

[felix.klauser]

Not sure the humidistat is the right approach. It would seem that equalising temperature *and* humidity is the key.

[Paulo]

A Greenhouse heater helped me out a few years ago, the tomatoes were not happy though !

 

Paul the 3F's

[grumpy the 7th]

Ian

 

cheers for replying to my info question. where are you??

 

you can get me @ work on 01142687587 & email @ roger.heeley@bt.com

 

or @ home 01909486999 (I don't go on email & home very often!)

 

regards

rog heeley

 

rog

[singlespeeder]

Look at an Airflow chamber,same idea as a carcoon but permanent support like a frame tent,so you can go in and out without deflating.DT sell them.

[michaelw]

I have always had damp problems in the garage and now have a 7 so I have brought a de-humidifier (about £150 from Homebase) and the whole garage is much drier (boxes etc that were always damp during the whole winter are now dry). The de-humidifier also has an external drain so it can be plumbed in. It has an adjustable humidistat (is that the right word) although I have no idea how damp/dry it should be.

 

I haven't had an electricity bill yet and the instructions say it can't be run below 2 degrees C. Does anyone know whether you can buy a thermostat that plugs in to the mains that will turn off below a certain temperature rather than the traditional on.

 

Michael.

[excess baggage]

OK.

There has been more bollocks posted to this thread than any other I have seen. Cross ventilation is needed, pure and simple. It works for underfloor voids and flat roofs. Fit some airbricks!

And while you are all blowing your trumpets with regard to your qualifications

to comment on this very common problem please don't forget the people that have to interpret your often stoopid ideas.

The builders.

EB

Ps

Carcoon is an acknowledged good idea, but then you don't need to be a FRICS to work that out!

Crudders, any comments????????

[Nigel Riches]

OOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours.

[Buda]

EB - Assume the last bit was directed at me??

 

All you've done is backed up what I said - Ventilation, either with airbricks or a mechanical fan... Carcoon is expensive and I was just trying to think of a cheaper solution, I didn't start the professional qualification bit (I'm not FRICS, just RICS anyway, the bloody architect did, and I put a smiley after it. I'm hurt EB, deeply hurt

 

Still think the water problem's cos of the retaining wall not draining properly though.

[PeterS]

EB

So, if I understand your suggestion correctly, whatever the dampness in the air outside, that is what you propose should be wafted over the car, using air bricks. Removing the walls all together would be therefore even more efficient at getting that air to the car.

Doesn't seem very wise. Perhaps some professional training is in order after all.

[Buda]

Peter

 

No. Ventilation is the key, as stated before its the way a carcoon works, you just ventilate the area to stop the moisture condensating and aid evaporation and then dispell the moisture.

 

I'm the first to admit there is a huge gulf between what people like me think and what builders do - they have their feet on the ground not in ivory towers.

[PeterS]

Buda

Builders are paid to implement the designs of others. How well they do that is a separate issue, and the reason for a whole array of inspectors, quantity surveyors, etc. to exist.

I am not suggesting that air movement is bad, but I do query the assumption that ALL air movement is good.

Surely it would be preferable to dehumidify the air which you wish to pass over the car.

Whether the moisture condenses is dependent on temperature as well as the moisture content. So a heater and a dehumidifier would seem to be the answer. Certainly, the dehumidifier will be more efficient at extracting the moisture at a higher temperature.