Crossflow Engine Removal

[mikes]

I am going to take the engine out for a rebuild over the Winter and, not having done this sort of thing before, need some advice on the best way to tackle it.

I have read on other threads that some recommend removing the engine and gearbox as a single unit, but other advice is to split them before removal.

The car is a 1989 1700 DeDion 5 speed if that is any help.

I am just about capable of getting all the ancillary bits off (but still not confident of removing exhaust manifold studs that have not been shifted since the car was new by the look of them) but any help would be welcome.

Thanks

Mike

[John E]

I've removed my engine with and without the box. I would now remove it without the box and put up with the pain of realigning the output shaft with the box in the car. All of the bell housing bolts are easy to get at and if you need to take the box out to replace mountings, inspect it or whatever, its easy to do later, just watch out for the oil.

The exhaust studs will probably benefit from a good soaking in releasing fluid and take care when undoing. Its worth moving them a bit at a time and if they seem tight give them another soaking with the fluid, in other words dont rush the job. look on the bright side, if one snaps at least you can have it removed when the engine is out of the car. Leave the carbs until the unit is out. The single stud under the manifold is a real pig but can be easily got at once you can see what you are doing. I removed the alternator, one side of engine mounts and the other once the lift had begun but you will have to suck it and see.

Best of luck and dont forget the wires.

 

Run Baby Run

[Robster]

I would agree with Mike's advice. Put your jack from the tool kit under the bellhouse to take the weight of the box once it is free (It isn't very heavy) and remove the engine as described. I would take the carbs/inlet manifold off first as it was easier for me to do it this way and they come off easily. You will have very little room between the crank pully/water pulley and the chasis rails coming out so take your time! The engine will need to be slid a few inches foward from the box to clear the 1st motion shaft from the box through the clutch..this is easy once the engine is free from it's mounts.

[Taran Las]

One point to mention about the 'box is when removing from the chassis - remember to remove the speedo drive. I broke one and it was a pig to repair.

 

Philip. D. Owen

Membership No. 3976

[pete east]

As indicated by other contributors unless the gearbox has to come out

its best to remove just the engine.It is just possible to reach the inlet

manifold bolt (centre under Carbs) with a long extension bar (and if

you have got one a universal joint) the torque is not that high.Would

definitely recommend removing the water pump along with the other

ancilliaries before lifting the engine as this gives you a lot more room

in the fore and aft plane.The gearbox can be supported on the Jack as

mentioned and helps with alignment when putting the engine back in

but I use a small length of timber and a pair of cable ties through the

top gearbox/block bolt holes to hold the bellhousing up when the engine is out of the car. The timber sits across the chassis tubes.this

allows the car to moved if required.One further tip is buy some polystyrene pipe insulating sleeve (tube with split down one side) to

protect the chassis tubes so that if the block bumps into the chassis

the powder coating is not damaged. Hope my little contribution is of

help,best of luck with your engine lift.

[mikes]

Many thanks for the comments.

I am glad there seems to be agreement about separating it from the gearbox before removal, because at least that makes the decision easier.

Good idea about protecting the chassis tubes.

So far I have only got as far as the penetrating oil on the exhaust studs bit to see if it works, but the engine won't come out until the end of December - there must be some good weekend blatting days left before Christmas - even with a slightly knackered crossflow!

I suppose the other thing is to try and collect advice about putting it back in.

Any advice on best ways to line it all up again?

Mike

 

 

[pete east]

To Mikes . A Few further tips regarding removing/replacing engine.

If possible it is a good idea to have some help available so that one

person can do the hoist work and the other can deal with alignment of the engine/gearbox including the shim plate/s between engine & gearbox and rotating the crankshaft (Spanner on crankshaft pulley

end nut) to line up the clutch/gearbox input shaft splines.If your shim plate is in one piece its a good idea to cut it at points shown in build manual,this allows the sump to be removed without having to separate the engine from the gearbox.As mentioned before use a jack

under the gearbox bellhousing to angle geabox upwards to receive

block and be aware of the angle between the block and gearbox don`t

get too exteme an angle on the gearbox.When doing an engine out

its worth considering replacing the clutch cover plate/driven plate/thrust bearing. Nothing worse than putting it all back together

only to find the clutch has started to slip.

[Klaus Loske]

Hi,

 

I also only remove the engine and leave the GB in the car.

 

To do so, I use two ropes around the engine and support the bellhousing of the gearbox with a jack.

 

In my garage, I have a hook in the ceiling to hook up one of those chain pull things (I dont know what they are called in english, in germany they are called Kettenzug).

 

I always use the ropes with different length, one at the rear of the engine and a slightly shorter one on the front of the engine. By doing so, the engine tilts a little when pulling it up, thus easier clearing the front chassis rail. Just make shure that you support the bellhousing while pulling it up. I my experience, you do not have to detach the gearbox from the chassis (this rubber block). It rotates nicely around this rubber thing.

 

In the old days, I had the standard oil sump on the x-flow and this came out very easiliy. Now I have the shallow James Whiting sump, which is a quite tight to get out, but with a bit of patience an pushing and rocking, you can get is out as well.

 

Usually I remove the carbs but leave the manifold on. Also no real need to remove the alternator.

 

Good luck

 

Klaus

 

Combustion is not a secret.

[Klaus Loske]

Hi,

 

I also only remove the engine and leave the GB in the car.

 

To do so, I use two ropes around the engine and support the bellhousing of the gearbox with a jack.

 

In my garage, I have a hook in the ceiling to hook up one of those chain pull things (I dont know what they are called in english, in germany they are called Kettenzug).

 

I always use the ropes with different length, one at the rear of the engine and a slightly shorter one on the front of the engine. By doing so, the engine tilts a little when pulling it up, thus easier clearing the front chassis rail. Just make shure that you support the bellhousing while pulling it up. I my experience, you do not have to detach the gearbox from the chassis (this rubber block). It rotates nicely around this rubber thing.

 

In the old days, I had the standard oil sump on the x-flow and this came out very easiliy. Now I have the shallow James Whiting sump, which is a quite tight to get out, but with a bit of patience an pushing and rocking, you can get is out as well.

 

Usually I remove the carbs but leave the manifold on. Also no real need to remove the alternator.

 

Good luck

 

Klaus

 

Combustion is not a secret.