StuB Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 The front of my car is now stripped and everything that can be removed is being nylon or powder coated. I'm now turning my attention to what's left behind. It's 1997 car and I believe this wasn't a vintage year for Caterham's powder coating ☹️. The chassis frame is rusty and in need of attention. I'm after some tips on prep and then using POR 15. On ebay there's a starter kit here which includes Marine Clean, Prep & Ready & the paint. Is this worth while or should i just buy the paint and attack what's there with a wire brush? Can anyone let me know how you've done it? Thanks, Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted January 6, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted January 6, 2013 I bought from Frosts a set of six small pots (3 POR15 undercoat, 3 top coat). Find the cheapest disposable brushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydragon Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 You'll need the prep kit too as this is part of getting an effective POR15 application. Another point to consider is that POR15 will not be jet black after drying and a bit of use. Therefore it's advisable (but not essential) to paint over the POR15 with satin black smooth hammerite after the POR15 has had a week to fully dry/cure. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I found Marine Clean fantastic, it strips off all the grease and muck and doesn't leave its own coating like solvents do. You Must wear gloves when using it, it dries out skin! Same with POR 15, if you do not wear gloves people will know what you have been up to for weeks afterwards!. (See other threads) Once you have stripped everything off look for cracks and pitting on the smaller tubes, they are amazingly thin. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 When I refurbished my chassis I stripped off the remaining powdercoat with nitromors and repainted using the POR system and got a very good finish. The marine clean is vital as is the etch coat. This then gets washed in wate prior to the black top coat. I did have a problem in 2 or 3 areas where the top coat reacted with something, possibly unwashed etch or even traces of the nitromors, that required repainting. With an ordinary brush the POR top coat dries to a very hard shiny durable finish. Note it is not UV stable, so I used the alternative POR top coat on small areas exposed around the front suspension pick ups. Alot of hard work compared to shot blasting and re -powdercoating, but I wasn't in a rush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Do as they say and decant small amounts of POR15 into a second container and reseal the tin, don't work straight from tin, before you put the lid back on tin put 2 or 3 layers of clingfilm between lid and tin or you will struggle to open the tin again once it dries it is a very effective glue 😬 Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuB Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Thanks to all for your feedback. Order placed with Frost for Marine Clean, Prep & Ready and the black paint. Will let you know how I get on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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