charlie_pank Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 This is a *theoretical* question as I don't need to change mine, it's a question I've thought about having read Ted7's problems, but I didn't want to hijack his thread. I also have a 1.6K and was wondering if there's anything difficult you need to do to replace head gasket yourself. Obviously you need to keep stuff clean etc... but given this list of components it should be easy, no? Torque wrench new head bolts new gasket the only bit I don't know how to do is *arrowright*not screw up the timing. I would be very interested to know how you make sure the timing is correct when you put it all back together. (I assume the only issue on the K is getting the cams right relative to the crank) as the spark comes from the ECU which knows where the crank is. Kermit the frog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 a cam locking tool will prevent the cams moving. there are then timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys. you start with the marks on the cam pulleys pointing at each other where the pulleys almost touch. the crank pulley will then also be lined up with its mark. getting the tension in the cambelt correct is another thing to look out for. getting the exhaust off the head can be awkward as well as can be very stiff and the studs are longer than necessary meaning there ain't much room. head bolts aren't necessarily required. you'll need torx sockets to undo the head bolts as well. you'll need to drain the coolant out as well otherwise a load gets airlocked in the head and goes all over the place when you lift it. I managed it and didn't screw up to badly (got the cambelt to tight though) using just a haynes manual. HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 You need a special socket to take out the through bolts. The head can warp in service, so you need to check it with a straight edge and feeler blades before refitting. If it is warped, you need to skim the head and this requires complete dismantling. When you refit after the skim, the timing will have shifted slightly which you can allow for by a variety of means. A little tool exists to lock the cam sprockets in position, making it much easier to set the timing. If you replace the timing belt at the same time, then you need to get the front pulley off which is a struggle. Appropriate use of 242 loctite on reassembly prevents embarrassing moments when pulleys fall off. A full timing check requires a dial test indicator (DTI) or equivalent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted November 7, 2002 Author Share Posted November 7, 2002 Ta Hoopy & Peter - sorry you replied while I was typing!! Does this cam-locking-tool lock the crank too? If there are marks for each on the block/head and marks on each pulley then it would be fine, and the locking tool would just make it easier to put the thing back together. Am I right in assuming I don't need to worry about the spark cos the ECU reads the timing directly from the crank (I'm used to working with an 8v Golf GTi with a distributor run off the cam belt)? Kermit the frog Edited by - charlie_pank on 7 Nov 2002 12:01:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 the cam locking tool is a small (couple of inches long) thing that jams in the teeth of the cam pulleys and stops them moving relative to each other. The crank won't rotate by itself (in fact you should NOT move it whilst the head is off as the liners may get displaced) but the cams will as the valve springs push them. the crank pulley is an ar5e to get off as peter says - I gave up and got the local rover dealer to do it. HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted November 7, 2002 Author Share Posted November 7, 2002 Y does crank pulley have to come off to change timing belt? On my old car, I just loosened the tensioner and slipped off the belt. I'm sure you're right, but I'd be interested to know more why. Kermit the frog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 It does, but i can't picture why off hand... HOOPY 500 kg R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted November 7, 2002 Author Share Posted November 7, 2002 😬 Kermit the frog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R500 CYA Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Best to remove the crankshaft pulley with an airgun if possible as it will stop the crank rotating. I did mine with a socket but it needed a huge extension bar and the crank moved slightly which is a bugger. However as long as you mark up the opposing teeth on the cam sprockets it shouldn't be a problem. By lining up the sprockets you ensure the pistons are only half way up the bores thus preventing any damage when the camshaft rotates and moves the valves out of order. The crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprockets need to be removed to allow access to the cambelt back plate which in turn has to removed to allow the head to be lifted. Top tip: once cambelt back plate has been removed, do not place on floor and then step on it whilst admiring your handywork. It is bad for your credibility. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted_7 Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 🤔 Anyone can give me the reference of the Haynes manual for the Rover 1.6K (1997) 🤔 Se7enly, Ted_7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 ted, I have a flemish manuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted_7 Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Ow... Well, I wanted to buy it for you anyway ! Se7enly, Ted_7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 You can remove the head while leaving the cambelt cover back plate in place. You need to remove the cam pulleys and then the cover can be flexed over the ends of the camshafts. It is changing the cambelt that requires the pulley to come off. It is a good idea to loosen the pulley while it is all together to avoid moving the crank with the head removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 The crank pulley does have to come off to get the belt off. It's tight but put the car in gear, chock the wheels, get a decent socket, tommy bar and a BIG length of gaspipe, then brutalise it. As for the belt, at £27 I can't see the point in refitting an old belt unless it is almost new, since there is a substantial amouint of work involved. You can make a tool to lock the cam sprockets - the Hades manual tells you how, and I made one. Actually I made 2 - don't try to use it to lock the sprockets while you undo the bolts, as it won't be strong enough. You need an E12 socket to get the head bolts out. Halfrauds have them. These bolts are REALLY tight. It's normal to reuse the bolts but i have heard a horror story of one breaking on reassembly. I got away with it though. Other than that, have fun. It isn't too bad a job once you have bitten the bullet. Oh, and if you can get the cam belt cover off and on again without breaking it, well done. I broke 2, one removing, one replacing, and I was being careful, at least the second time. The only consolation is they go back together and the bolts hold them in place. Top Tip: remove the chassis bars, this makes the removal and refitting of the manifolds much easier. Don't split the inlet manifold from the injection gubbins, as described in the manual, just unbolt it from the head. Finally I didn't know about the existence of these updated head gaskets, which seem like a good idea. Mine came from the co. which skimmed the head, and they supplied steel dowels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACR Posted November 9, 2002 Share Posted November 9, 2002 I'm just getting around to putting my timing belt back on having swapped the head gasket. However the one I got from Halfords seems a little short and is proving very difficult to fit. I've counted the teeth and it's got 2 less than the original Rover one. As long as the timing marks line up it shouldn't make a difference but have I been sold the wrong belt? It's a HTB722 and going on a 1.8 k-series from a '99 car. My tensioner is also different to the one in the manual - plastic with a wire spring sticking out the side that hooks over a bolt - how do I set this up correctly? Cheers Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 10, 2002 Share Posted November 10, 2002 Dunno if you have the right belt. it sounds unlikely if there are a different no. of teeth. Only a factor/dealer would know. As for the tensioner, that's easy. Back it off all the way and tighten the pinch bolt.Wrestle the belt on (it will be tight because it is toothed, if there were too much slack then it might skip a tooth with disastrous consequences). Serioiusly these are tight, if you have never fitted one before then start at the bottom, take up all the slack onto the first cam, pull it tight onto the second cam, then yell "BASTARD!" and fight it onto the water pump and tensioner. If it doesn't work, wiggle the water pump then yell "BASTARD!" louder and repeat as above. Having fought the belt on, dance a victory dance around the workshop before slackening the tensioners. Turn the engine over on the crank bolt for 3 rotations, you will see the tensioner sort itself out and tighten the belt. Then tighten the pinchbolt followed by the pivot bolt, turn it over a few more times, check the valve timing for the umpteenth time, then take a deep breath and refit the cambelt cover. Finish the job, turn it all over on the crank belt, then go for it on the starter (after a deep breath). Sigh with relief when it fires, grin all the broader when it goes like a train on the test drive (I did). try to avoid getting pulled over for 82 in a 60 ( I didn't).Fortunately the copper had a sense of humour and I was overtaking 4 cars at the time, so I got off with a wrist slap. Good luck - it's worth it. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted November 10, 2002 Share Posted November 10, 2002 There are two types of tensioner, manual and auto, the auto tensioner (99 on non-VVC) requires a longer belt. Sounds like you have the auto tensioner (characterised by the lack of a backplate and clamp bolt and having a pointer/loop wire) and a manual belt. Any post 1999 non-VVC and non Motorsport 190 engine should use the same tensioner/belt arrangement. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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