BruceW Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 That magic moment has arrived. All fueled up, battery connected etc. Cutoff switch connected and pressed. Immobiliser light out. Fule pump whirrs, cranks up good oil pressure but no ignition. Try a bit longer and fuel can be smelt from exhaust so preumably no air lock etc. Checked fuse for ECU etc and inertia switch definitely down. Removed cam cover and checked coil packs connceted etc. Still no idea. Just a clue-when the battery is connected the main beam warning light glows gently-presumably odd earthing somewhere-none of the lights are fitted though. Also with the battery connected but ignition off I can here a very soft electrical high pitch tone-is this normal? I figure this must be an electrical problem but have no idea how to check or what to do from here. I've been over the connections and checked things are tight etc. The only one I am slightly unsure about is the engine earth lead from the mount to the block-I was unsure exactly what part of the block to attach and found a bracket for part of the loom with a convenient screw. If this was not good would it stop it starting?? I am not a man who knows how to use a voltmeter, is now a good time to learn; or just sod it and let Caterham sort it out at the PBC. Disappointing day. Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 Bruce providing the earth cable is attached to metal on the engine then you shouldn't have a problem, also the starter wouldn't turn if ther was no earth to the block Does sound like it's ignition related, I'd be uncomfortable about the glowing main beam light and the high pitched noise, doesn't sound quite right! Might be worth checking to see if there is a spark, pull one of the spark plug leads out and point it at the block/ chassis, turn the engine over and see if oyu get a spark, alternatively if hte connector is too far up the tube remove a spark plug, put it in the connector then hold the outer metal part of the plug to earth, turn the engine over and again check for a strong blue spark good luck! Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 Be careful not to give yourself a shock as well as it can really hurt if you do.The spark should be blue in colour, if its yellow it can be indicative of an ignition fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 When you've tested for a spark not at same time ☹️ pull an injector and chk for fuel if they are both there then unless you are electrically competent call on an expert as it will require an elimination process with instruments. jj N.I. L7C AO. Membership No.3927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 I think it would be relatively safe to say that your issue with the main beam light glowing would probably be due to some kind of backfeeding related to the fact that your circuits are not complete on the lamps and the switch might be finding an earth through its illumination circuit. The faint electrical buzzing noise must be identified I think for us to help you further; I personally wonder if it might be the flasher unit complaining that there is no load accross it in the form of indicators? But then you'd have to have the hazards on or something? Find where the noise is coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 Try cranking the engine and squirting some "Eeze Start" into the throttles; if it runs you've got a proper spark and no fuel. If it doesn't you've got no spark - and maybe no fuel either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceW Posted November 7, 2002 Author Share Posted November 7, 2002 Thanks for all the help so far, it will be the weekend before I can have a go again. I reckon it is electrical as I can smell fuel in the exhaust pipe after trying to start it. if so anyone care to offer a likely cause/cure? Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marchant Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Bruce, I don't have any additional help on the starting problems. However, on my R300 I just completed two of the wires on the back of the headlamp flasher switch were reversed, which meant that mainbeam was permanently on. Of course without the lights you only have the blue warning LED. Azure Blue R 300 ONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Julian the "The faint electrical buzzing noise must be identified " you mentioned seems to appear on all EU3 cars and I think it comes from the coil packs on top of the spark plugs. Unlikely to be the cause but I had the same problems with my 1.6SS and it turned out to be that the cams where 180 degrees out... rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennie Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 The first thing to check is the inertia switch on the bulk head behind the battery it has a rubber cover on top, just push the rubber down. Next is the connection on the ECU, these are modified to a VW connection on the wiring loom and can be suspect. It may also try switching the immobiliser on and off four or five times. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Len - I do not think they have these any more my car May 2001 dosen't and all more recent cars I have seen do not either (although this is only a few I have looked at!) Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceW Posted November 7, 2002 Author Share Posted November 7, 2002 The inertia switch is down and must be disengaged as the fuel pump would not work without I think. The immobiliser light is off when pressed to unlock it so I am assuming this would confirm it has disengaged. What does it immobilise actually-would the starter turn if it had not switched off? Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Immobiliser on/off sequence repeated 4 times was certainly necessary for the EU2 k-series. Might be worth a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJL Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 Bruce The starter will still turn when the immobiliser is in "immobiliser" mode. Just to make sure its off you could activate it and then deactivate it - this usually creates some clicking from underneath the dashboard. The high piched whine is normal (my eu3 car does it) along with various whirrings from the idle valve. Regards the main beam tell tale perhaps you should pull the fuse or disconnect the lights to eliminate this from the problem ? Lastly make sure battery is fully charged and isn't flooded Regards Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 I'm not sure which immobiliser you have, but on the std K series MEMS one you must wait for the light to flash slowly in an armed state before you disarm it with the fob; if you don't, then even though the light goes out the system still won't allow the car to start. (bloody daft sods at Rover!) The fact you can smell fuel is I suppose some consollation; I reckon it means that you are getting the injectors firing, at least, which in turn means that the crank sensor etc... is passing signals to the ECU. (I hate assuming this, so perhaps you ought to pop an injector out as suggested earlier) We are assuming your fuel pressure reg is working and not stuffed, and therefore not allowing any fuel in? Can you check to make sure you have +ve 12V to the coil pack low tension sides on an EU3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceW Posted November 8, 2002 Author Share Posted November 8, 2002 Call me an idiot-but aren't spark plugs supposed to be connected to the coils??!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I took off the cam cover to check the spark and discovered no.s 2 and 4 are not connected to the coil packs at all. Tell me it is not supposed to look like that please. Nice one Rover Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted November 9, 2002 Share Posted November 9, 2002 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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