Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 16, 2012 Support Team Share Posted October 16, 2012 Are there any special tools required to separate the head from the block? Are the head bolts standard hex or some sort of star design? Any tips/gotchas? Thanks, Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 The head bolts are of a star design - the name escapes me at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 TorX ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 It's a torx socket - I used the Britool PEE - which are impact sockets, as they were the easiest for me to get old of. A soft faced mallet may also be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Shaun If you are going further into the engine (and the engine is out of the car), a crank locking tool is essential for the front pulley bolt. I can send you mine if you wish, or look on eBay - they are about £20 Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 here (The item description is incorrect as it is a crank locking tool) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 16, 2012 Author Support Team Share Posted October 16, 2012 Thanks folks - I have a set of Torx sockets so hopefully will have the right one. Hi Malcolm - I'm still hoping to sell the bottom end in one piece so shouldn't have to do any further disassembling but thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 For a crank lock I use a screwdriver in the teeth of the ring gear, clamped in place with Mole grips. ISTR DVA told me the head bolts are not Torx but just funny looking hex heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Yes I've done that and when the screw driver slipped it shot across the garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Just liked on Elise spares, and the head bolts look like Torx to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 They are like "reverse" Torx heads. E12 female Torx is the right size I'm sure, as I refitted my head over the weekend. Mind you, I did just grab a socket from the rail without paying attention to the size of it... Edit: it probably isn't critical, but I like to unwind the head bolts in the reverse order of fitting, i.e. spiral from outside in, and a bit at a time, rather than cranking them out completely one at a time. Edited by - Mankee on 16 Oct 2012 13:12:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted October 16, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted October 16, 2012 Quoting Tony Whitley: ISTR DVA told me the head bolts are not Torx but just funny looking hex heads. Thats the big end bolts that you're thinking of, which are bi-hex heads. Quoting Mankee: it probably isn't critical, but I like to unwind the head bolts in the reverse order of fitting, i.e. spiral from outside in, and a bit at a time, rather than cranking them out completely one at a time. The Rover manual does specify a technique for head bolt removal, as Mankee states, to reduce the risk of distortion of the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 When I said "ISTR" I was relying on my increasingly fallible... what was I talking about? The Internet agrees it's an E12 Torx... but I'm going to try a hex socket later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Quoting Shaun_E: Thanks folks - I have a set of Torx sockets so hopefully will have the right one. The sockets need to be fairly thin walled or you may get into trouble. Ideally you want long 3/8" drive sockets. Other than that pulling the head is dead easy on a K-series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 halfords pro sockets fit you will need a breaker bar too or a 2 foot long torque wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 sorry meant to add halfords stock the correct torx socket thingys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Shaun, Cromwell tools are pretty good for one off / unusual sockets - there is a branch at 770 Buckingham Ave Slough. They were the only place I could get a mahusssive torx bit for the Impreza gearbox plug. Plus their HQ is in Wigston which is quite nearby. Also in Wigston is the now defunct RF Brookes pie factory (of interest to Mr J) - no longer do I get the smell of steak and kidney when I take child No2 to football on a Saturday ☹️ Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 17, 2012 Author Support Team Share Posted October 17, 2012 Halfords Pro Torx socket - Breaker bar - Instructions on head bolt loosening/removal process - Finding out there's a Cromwell's in Slough - I'll be attempting head removal on Saturday - expect more questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 You might/will need to spin the cams round so that the head bolts will clear the bolts on removal. It'd be a good idea to set the timing to the "safe" position so that the pistons are all halfway down the bores. Then, if you take the belt off, you there won't be any danger of piston/valve contact if you do have to wind the cams round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 I would be careful to make sure you turn the cams only when they are connected to the crank. One of the 90BTDC positions will allow unfettered access to the head bolts. Shaun's head has rather large valves which will strike one another if they are not kept in synch, if you turn just one cam on it's own there is a good chance you will bend some valves. This is not true for regular K's or for VVCs or for VHPDs with stock sized valves. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 17, 2012 Author Support Team Share Posted October 17, 2012 Thanks for the additional info Oily. Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Oct 2012 10:54:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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