McBreadhead Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 On a 1996 de-dion car, it is the offside front that has started squealing. What is procedure please and do I need any special tools? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 9, 2012 Member Share Posted October 9, 2012 Lots in the archives, including this. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 That's all you need. Maybe it is dry and may recover after removal of the loose bits, washing in solvent/petrol and regreasing ? See if there is any play and what they look like. If you need anything from Redline, phone ASAP today, as last day before their one week holiday ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Are you sure you haven't got a stone down in the calliper somewhere which is rubbing against the disk, they make the most dreadful noise. If its the bearing it must be knackered if its making that noise. They normally rumble or clonk if they're shot. If its got that dry it can't be worth not replacing it, and the seal too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Or running out of brake pad friction material ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McBreadhead Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hmmm...... all I know is that the front offside wheel squeals only when going round LH bends and that the pads were replaced only 5k miles or so ago. I will see if it only needs a re-grease up but what is the best test for establishing if it's shot with too much play? I am guessing jack up the car and with wheel still on, put your hands at a quarter to 3 and move from side to side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 No - that checks steering track rod ends. Hold wheel at 12 and six o'clock and push-pull. I found the original small bearings (with nasty felt seal) often needed adjusting. More peace of mind with the stub/shaft/hub/bearing upgrade kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 It may be bearing adjustment or loose wheel nuts ( 😳) if only on LH bends .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Incidentally, replacing front bearings without replacing front hubs is folly. It's the hubs that wear (being made of aluminium) more than the bearings, assuming that the bearings have been properly greased. Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 But the running surfaces are steel/steel inside the bearings. The hubs shouldn't wear as long as the bearing cups aren't turning in the hubs ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Quoting Z3MCJez: Incidentally, replacing front bearings without replacing front hubs is folly. It's the hubs that wear (being made of aluminium) more than the bearings, assuming that the bearings have been properly greased. Jez Sounds like you must have spent loads of money unnecessarily 😳 Old fashioned centre punch? Bearing lock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 A very good tip from Ian (SM25T) from when I replaced a front wheel bearing: When fitting the new bearing race into the hub, heat up the hub and cool the race. I put the hub in the oven at a moderate temp and the new bearing race went in very easily, it minimised the chance of damaging the race when putting it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 ... and if you have the dreaded felt seals ---- don't mess about trying to tap it in gently and squarely, a little bit at a time. Lay the hub on the ground on its studs (remembering to put the bearing inside first !), sit the new felt seal metal side down on to the hub, lay a piece of wood across the felt and hit it with a big hammer. Should go home in one. If you try the dainty way, in can get horribly mis-shaped and never fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Lay the hub on the ground on its studs .......... on a piece of wood or fit the wheel nuts first .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 the felt should only be very lightly oiled just around the axle mating surface, 3-in-1 or equivalent is all you need. Don't be tempted to soak it in oil or smother it in bearing grease as the felt will stick to the stub axle and be ripped off within a few miles of motoring. Guess how I found that out........ 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 My old felt seal snagged on a tiny nick in the upright casting and the felt peeled off like a string of orange peel. Persuaded me to upgrade to bigger hubs, shaft and bearings, with proper rubber grease seals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 The felt seals are not a problem if installed correctly and they do work and last well. However as I trashed the hubs and front suspension at Anglesey last Sunday maybe I'll upgrade to the latest hub/stub axle/seal assembly. Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 11 Oct 2012 17:02:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Quoting Englishmaninwales: Quoting Z3MCJez: Incidentally, replacing front bearings without replacing front hubs is folly. It's the hubs that wear (being made of aluminium) more than the bearings, assuming that the bearings have been properly greased. Jez Sounds like you must have spent loads of money unnecessarily 😳 Old fashioned centre punch? Bearing lock? Bearing lock would solve it temporarily. But it's a race car and any unnecessary play become a really nasty vibration at 115mph. Hubs are not expensive in the scheme of running a race car. And as they are constantly fully loaded in corners, they do wear. It's something that goes much quicker (mile for mile) on a race car than a road car. Worse again as you move to slicks. Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Jez That wasn't clear in your original post. To imply it is a folly (without clarifcation) might result in people with road cars buying new hubs at every front wheel bearing change, which IMO is not necessary. I agree that for a race car the threshold for replacement of all components is much much lower, and indeed that is how I treat my car (that spends 99% of its time as a hillclimbing and sprint car) Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Agreed Malcolm. More haste, less speed, in getting my point across. Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MK07FUN Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Sorry guys ... been through the archives (and Google and the build manuals) but can't find any photos or exploded diagrams that represent my 2005 car's front bearings / hubs / stub, upright ... i have left the bearing inner on the stub and it won't budge, but before i do any drastic removing I want to make sure I am not hitting an immovable part! ... also, I have no idea what the felt washer is all about... the bearing was so disintegrated that removing the hub revealed only greasy carnage and no sign of felt! Anyone got some pictures, diagrams or video? Pleeeeeez? Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 2005 probably wont have the felt washer ? Are inner and outer bearings the same size ? If so, then you have the later hub with a parallel stub shaft, rather than the old tapering shaft. If the inner bearing is stuck on the shaft, try some PlusGas on it for a day or so. Then use a 3-leg bearing puller. You can undo the nut on the inner end of the stub shaft, then while the nut is still attached, hit the face of the nut with a hammer to free the stub shaft from the upright. You will find it easier to get the bearing off then. You can support the bearing across the top of a big vice and drift the shaft through it ---- being sure to hit the nut, rather than the end of the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MK07FUN Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 that all sounds eminently sensible! ... thanks... I'll try it in the morning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MK07FUN Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 (and yes... that does describe the axle / bearing on the car) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 2, 2013 Member Share Posted January 2, 2013 :-) Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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