Replacing copper brake lines

[TomB]

Im thinking of replacing my copper brake lines over the winter. They look like theyve been bent to shape by Stevie Wonder wearing boxing gloves, and as they are 16 years old and copper pipe is pretty cheap, Im wondering about chanding them for new ones.

 

I gather I can bend radius's using a special tool or a socket of suitable diameter, but what else do I need apart from pipe? Any tips or experiences of doing this?

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Pipe flaring tool. Re-use old nut fittings (threaded over new pipe before you flare the ends !)

[SLR No.77]

If they're not tidy they're probably not original Caterham install therefore unlikely to be as old as you think. If you're thinking about doing something more major in the next few years why not wait till then?

 

Stu.

[TomB]

unlikely to be as old as you think

 

Well Ive had the car 10 years, they could be a racers bodge/ quick & dirty pipe change.

 

why not wait till then?

 

Cos I cant stop messing with the bloody thing

 

[TomB]

So if I wanted to replace the fittings as well, what do I need? I have a mate with a flaring tool.

[Unclefester]

Don't use pure copper pipe.....the proper stuff is an alloy with nickel.

Pure copper is dangerous as it'll crack. The only stuff that's homologated is the alloy.

[elie boone]

Why not by a new one from CC, they are not expencive

[SLR No.77]

Tom, I suspect Elie is referring to brake lines rather than a new chassis

 

Stu.

[TomB]

I can find pre formed brake lines for Sigma cars but not older EU2 K series.

[jj48]

For the sake of a a couple of quid it's not worth using the old unions-also they can spley out were the union is threaded in and will then not always be easy to put back in.

Regards

Richard

[Paul Deslandes]

Buy a small tube cutter from Frosts or your local motor factor. They're pretty cheap and you get a much cleaner and truer cut than a hacksaw, and no swarf. I would always use a proper brake pipe bender, again pretty cheap, so you get the shape you need and little or no risk of kinking.

[abbot]

Talk to the boys at Redline they do flared pipe to length. The job is really easy except i decided to renew flexi hoses front and rear and managed to shear off a bleed nipple on front caliper. Very expensive and very frustrating

[TomB]

Redline are brill! Will note it down and given them a call

[Paul Richards]

Tom

You can easily get brake pipes made locally. Best is to take off the old pipe and get them copied. Car and Garage will probably do whilst you wait.

[charlie_pank]

No need to get them made up for you. A brake line kit (flaring tool, cutter and some unions) and a few metres of the pipe are (relatively) peanuts.

[TomB]

Is it possible to replace the copper pipe that goes to the rear of the car, when the car is in a build condition, or can it only be done with prop and gearbox removed?

Do I have to drill the rivets out of the top of the tunnel to gain access? Can the pipe be maneuovered if pre-formed, or does it need shaping in-situ?

[elie boone]

much easyer without diff and g.box for sure, you will need to drill out the rivets that hold the P clips that hold the brakelines.

It's most likely that u will need to open some bends in order to pass trough the tunnel

 

If you have a SV i have a new brakeline front to rear gathering dust

 

Personally i always use braided hoses, much easyer to use

[Titanium7]

Why not go flexible?

[diggerman]

I gather I can bend radius's using a special tool or a socket of suitable diameter, but what else do I need apart from pipe? Any tips or experiences of doing this?

 

Wouldn't recommend forming over a socket. You are likely to squash the pipe and potentially restrict flow. Only bend using a proper brake pipe bender.

 

I agree with others. Buy new pipes from Caterham. Much easier and much safer.

 

Peter

[TomB]

I thought that flexible pipes all the way round wasn't good because of pipe wall flex leading to spongy brakes. Im guessing an easy was to do it could be to feed the unbent pipe down the tunnel from above the gearbox, and then bend the rear end to fit under the car. Im imagining it would be very tricky to feed the preformed pipe down the tunnel with the prop etc down there.

[Baz Hemsley]

Tom you must pay attention, it's not copper.

[TomB]

'Copper' is assumed shorthand for Copper-Nickel alloy!

[TomB]

My local Unipart have a roll of Cunifer brake lines that Ill pick up on my way home from work. Before I do, please can someone confirm the diameter I need?

[TomB]

Quick update for anyone who might find this thread of use in the future.

 

This job is an absolute ball ache of a job to do neatly and I wish Id not bothered starting. Observations:

 

1) Buy proper brake pipe bending pliers, rather than a pipe bender. They are expensive but you can make much tighter bends with them.

2) You can pre-bend the front pipes before taking them somewhere for flaring, but would recommend getting the long rear one flared with fittings before you start bending.

3) On the rear one, attach the rear connection first before threading the front around the pedal box.

4) Once pipe is bent, it impossible to get it back to a satisfactory straight to try again if its in the wrong place. Bend once, bend correctly.

5) Dont get the MC to front three way pipe the wrong way round as the two male connectors are are UNF & metric, and dont find out after youve carefully bent to shape.

6) Buy a roll as you'll have loads of wastage.

7) Loosening the fuel filter make it easier to get the rear brake pipe curved and connected.

 

Main suggestion would be wait until you are rebuilding the car!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kevsta]

Depressing read Tom! I have a slow weep out of my MC where the brake line goes in (replaced MC end of last year) so I need to change my pipes

 

Kev