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This is why I hate electrics...


Rampmonkey

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Ok, following on...

 

Hooked up the tin top via jump leads to make sure I wasn't being suckered by the optimate into thinking I had a perfectly good battery.

 

FIA swx to ON. Ok.

Hazards check. OK. No buzzing, even got lights.

Ignition to position 2. Ok.

Fuel pump driving. Ok.

Press starter button. Click from starter motor, no turnover.

Out of the corner of my eye I see a wisp of smoke rising from the battery/ coil area (sorry, can't be more specific as it was dissipating as I saw it)

Now nothing. Totally dead again; no hazards, no buzzing, no turnover. Nil.

 

I want a cup of tea ☹️

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Not wanting to tempt fate here but....

 

We may have a functioning car! Just done a random ferret around, wobbled a few connections etc and noticed a prompt change in the optimate readout....

 

Went through a VERY tentative and methodical start, checking what was what at each stage of the game. Succeeded in getting her going again! Did a full shut down and restart for absolute certainty, checked all the electrical services once up and running. Hey presto!

 

SM25T - many thanks for the patient advice this morning, I'm sure it was something along the line that cured the ill!

 

*wavey* *thumbup*

 

Jase

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Gonna leave the immobiliser off I think! It was a royal pain anyway; did a better job of keeping me from starting the car!

 

As for the 12v socket, there is clearly an issue there as the car won't start when it's attached to the battery...

 

The quest continues!

 

😬

 

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sorry didn't carry on with input, although Ian did a fine job, had to nip out

presumably 12v socket is empty when causing problem, have you checked resistance across the connecting wires when not fitted, I am sure what you say is correct but it makes no sense to me that the socket can draw enough current to stop the car starting without blowing the in line fuse, 10amp fuse as opposed to the starter taking 200amps or so,

How are you , physicaly, connecting the socket to the battery , have you connected the socket to battery without it being fitted in car , the socket that is not the battery 😬

 

Tim

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Got it sorted!!! 😬

 

Wired the socket as per the instructions that came with it, ie direct to the battery pos to pos, neg to neg. Hey presto! (as I did in the first instance, but WITH the immobilizer fitted!)

 

I took the thing apart and gross checked for loose connections etc, but all seemed good! Did my usual tentative and methodical application of power and devices with no issues.

 

To be ABSOLUTELY certain, I went for a 250 mile blat with the sat nav plugged in. 😬 Just to be sure!

 

To highlight my original statement, this is why I hate electrics!!!

 

Cheers for your help fellas! Wave if you see L7 SEV!

 

Jase

 

Edited by - Rampmonkey on 17 Aug 2012 17:13:42

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who ever said elektrickery made any sense, 7s are simple, its was much more fun de bugging a Nimrod, F,ing miles of cable 😬

*thumbup*for fixing it , one day you may well discover what caused it 😬

 

Tim

 

Edited by - tbird on 17 Aug 2012 18:41:57

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Ramp monkey just one word of warning the way you have it wired could if you have a lapse of memory leave you with a flat battery In an ideal world and power skt should be ign controlled

That is to say wired exactly the way you have it BUT with the Pos broken through a relay switched by Ign.

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But if you do that Jonty you can't use it for your conditioner , If you are going to wire it through a switch I would say wire it after the FIA switch then you have the choice and it will still pass Scrutineering if needed

 

Tim

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Hi guys,

 

Yeah, I was a tad worried about the flat battery thing. The optimate plugs in after each blat, purely because I have no idea when the car will be used next. I presume this will save me from flat battery territory? *smile*

 

One day, maybe when I get the new (and decent) immobiliser fitted, I'll charge the nice man to wire in the socket post-FIA swx!

 

*thumbup*

Jase

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This of course is very true but then in an ideal world you would have two different skts of different types One power in and One power out one pre ign one post in fact probably more one to power sat nav one for autocom and one for two way radio. and there's still your mobile. 😬 and if you do Gome events you'll have an ign controlled fuse board cos you'll have your potty, flexi light and nav computer. It gets to be endless.I always meant to lift the scuttle on SAZ and redo the whole lot, never got round to it and never will now.

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 17 Aug 2012 21:35:42

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In the rebuild of the 21, I did put pre-ignition and post-ignition sockets into the car.

It allows the Optimate to go in (if the garage has power) and for the heated seat pad not to drain the battery power if one gets left in.

But three sockets are surely enough!

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But three sockets are surely enough!

Nope what about

http://www.conrad-uk.com/medias/global/ce/8000_8999/8500/8500/8508/850888_RB_00_FB.EPS_1000.jpg

 

and maybe an inverter so you can have a watch winder as well

 

Tim

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