jackb_ms Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Hello all The the head of the bolt holding the radius arm to the chassi has sheared off in the distance past. The access is rather limited so I cannot drill it out, and there is body work around it so I cannot use heat. Has someone tried this here and this stud extractor here Jack   Edited by - jackb_ms on 27 Jul 2012 16:52:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 if there's enough sticking out to get the extractor onto the stub, can you get hold of it with good mole grips? I haven't tried that particular penetrating substance but whatever you use, keep soaking it and leave it as long as you can, (days!) to give it the best chance. Another way is to mig weld a bar onto the end of the stub or drive on a smaller 12 point socket. Either way penetrating oil is a must to avoid the risk of shearing it off nearer to the body work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wag Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 I quite like the halfords stud extractor set on the same page. However, you are up against it. If the thing has already sheared, trying to grip a small bit left sticking out and hoping it wont shear again is optimistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 I have been soaking it for 24hrs in Plus Gas, I'll give it an other soaked this evening. The apealing of that product is that it "freeze" which I think may cause less damaged than heat(/) The body work is very much in the may which mean welding is out of the question. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 I we talking about the front end of the radius arm? Are they captive on the newer chassis?  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 "Stud" it s not the real descrition but a lot quicker than" bolt with sheared head"Â Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 But it has a nut on the other end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 if the 21 is the same as the '95 vintage 7, there are two alternative radius arm forward positions. The upper 'ride' setting goes into a threaded boss and has no nut and the lower 'handling' setting is a plain, un-threaded boss so a nut is required with a longer bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Ahh, I never used the "girls" setting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 neither do I, but you know what these 21 owners are like....... 😬  Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Confused as my radius arms are nylocs on studs. If you remove the wheel-arch, surely that gives enough space to drill it out? If the head is off, can you slide the radius arm off thus revealing much more of the stud for you to grab? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keybaud Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Not sure if this technique will be suitable, but one method of removing bolts with sheared heads is to file a slot in one end and then use a screwdriver to undo it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy the 7th Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I've used the Halfrauds 'Shock & Release' stuff with very impressive results. Does the same thing I think? freezes and penetrates. However talking to a Midget owner only last Thursday (of the MG variety 😬) he says the best tested substance (according to classic car people) is a mix of transmission fluid and acetone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Jacking your car up on one side, so that whatever penetrating fluid you use will have a better effect as it will sit around the top of the stud, is a good idea too. Don't laugh; but coca-cola (other brands are also available) works really well too. Personally, I'd rather take the long-winded approach and remove anything in the way (rear wings etc.), and drill the centre of the bolt/stud with a left-handed drill bit (encourages bolt/stud to start turning in an anti-clockwise direction, and drillbit can snatch it free and then remove with the drill), and then use a proprietory stud extractor (preferably with straight flutes rather than tapered sides). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Just bought a set of these stud extractors. Superb and don't damage threads either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 The problems with the long winded aproach on the 21 is the fair amount of body work to remove 😬 Doug What is the height of those stud extractor? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 They're appx 1 inch or slightly over; the same as a standard socket. Edited by - Doug on 28 Jul 2012 23:17:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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