Engine fitting, any tips?

[BruceW]

All set for the arrival of the hoist. Few queries before I get going-and any tips would be welcomed.

I have searched the archives and learned a bit but have the following questions.

 

Any reason not to fit the manifold before lifting the whole shebang?

 

One thread mentioned modifying the gearbox mount in an SV to make it all fit. What was that about?

 

Is it worth raising the front on axle stands or just leave it on the wheels.

 

I spy a pair of holes on the chassis members-which is for the engine mount? (perhaps obvious when it is in place).

 

Thanks as ever

 

Bruce

 

(1.6SV in construction)

 

 

 

 

[Joe 90]

You can fit the inlet minfold but I wouldn't fit the exhaust.

 

You want the car up fairly high, i.e. axle stands all round, because you may need to get underneath to position the gearbox mount so that it all lines up.

 

One problem is deciding when to remove the gearbox output shaft plug. Too early and you p*ss oil out, too late and there's no room to withdraw it.

 

99,000 miles so far

[BruceW]

I was not going to fill the gearbox until afterwards, although I was going to remove the plug in readiness.

 

Bruce

[Paul Richards.]

I think Oliver is referring to the residue of oil in the gearbox. You certainly don't want to fill until after installation, as you need to have the engine and box at quite a steep angle.

Tips -

1. Mask or cover with cardboard and tape inside of transmission tunnel and engine bay inc. side of pedal box, to avoid damage/scratching.

2. Personally I would fit reverse light switch after installation as it's easy to catch and break. I did help successfully fit an R300 engine on Saturday with it in, but you have to be careful.

3. Put on axle stands to get underneath to guide propshaft into gearbox assuming hoist is on wheels.

4. Fit exhaust manifold after. There is no room to fit before esp. as new chassis no longer have removable rail.

5. Make sure you have already fitted speedo drive.

 

Paul R.

C7PPR

K series that starts when hot!!

[Tony J]

Don't forget to get the prop shaft in place.. I didn't and now have to remove either the diff the engine again

[Blatman]

Try and get the rear of the car as high above the front as possible. That way, you won't have the engine/gearbox assembly at such an acute angle......

[Midnight]

not sure if its necessary on a K. series, but when putting in my X-flow engine I covered and taped the tubes at the front and side of the engine bay with some of that foam pipe insulation. it saved the powder coating from getting damaged as the engine was wiggled into position. With the crossflow 5 speed its slightly easier IMO to put the prop then gearbox in separately, suspending the gearbox at the front from strong tie wraps through the gearbox top bolt holes and a bar (piece of wood) placed across the front/top of the gear tunnel aperture. and finally fitting the engine less its ancillaries (much lighter and less bits to snag). Getting the first motion shaft splines engaged through the clutch and into its bearing in the flywheel can take a bit of pulling and pushing, but it doesn't take too long. Once engine and gearbox are mated almost together. you can insert some of the bellhousing bolts to take the strain and cut free the tie wraps holding up the gearbox. I would also recommend placing a jack under the front of the gearbox housing to adjust the angle of it, relevent to the engine and for safety in case the tie wraps give way. This might be compeletly the wrong way with a K series motor, but some of this might help.

Regards