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K series cam timing marks


No Nuts

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For those of you on Cam 7 - this is turning into a bit of a saga!

 

OK, basically had to whip the cams out last weekend to check something.

 

Have the marks on the standard cam pulleys so thought no problem, use the marks on the pulleys on re-assembly.

 

But hang on, where is the associated mark on the crank pulley (well, on the one that drives the alternator belt. There's one for TDC and there's one at XX BTDC. I originaly thought the mark at XX was at 90 btdc but on checking piston height 2&3 are higher than 1&4 so clearly it is not!

 

So, the mark I was using is on the FRONT of the pulley driving the alternator off the crank. Is this the right mark to use for timing the cams when the two arows line up on the cam pulleys.

OR

Is 90 BTDC the right place to line the cam pulley marks up and if so, how on earth do I tell where this is from the crank pulley driving the alternator? Or can't I and I'm going to have to rig up something to tell me when pistons 1&2 are at the same height???

 

Help please, I thought I'd got this sussed on Monday night but was just doing a quick check and am now totally confused at to what is right.

 

I'm almost deperate enough to post my phone number but I won't. If you know me, know the answer, please call.

 

TIA

Guy

 

NN 😳

Lotus @ Herts

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Guy

 

I have just set mine up and used the mark on the alternator drive pulley that lines up when the marks on Inlet and exhaust cams are lined up horizontaly.

 

You will need to use a locking block between the cams otherwise one cam will move when you tighten the tension pulley.

 

Fired mine up yesterday and it runs like dream *thumbup*

 

 

 

Tony J

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I have just done a head off job on my 1.4K16 and timing it all up is OK provided you take your time. The crankshaft pulley has a peg on it so the pulley only goes in one position on the shaft. When you line it up with the marks it is 90°BTDC and all the pistons will be the same height. You can then replace the head and time up the cams (use a locking clip as suggested,it stops the cams springing out of position under valve spring pressure) After the belt has been replaced turn it over a few times with the 22mm socket and check it again. If you are still confused, I know this is heresy, but buy the Hades Rover 214 manual: it really is informative, even if you have to cast around for details like torque settings etc. C'mon, a cambelt is £27 for one of these, another 15 to make sure it goes on right is cheap enough. With 16 valves to time up the fewer of them are bent the better.
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K series I take it?

 

There is a line embossed on the cam belt cover further round in a clockwise direction than the TDC mark, it is perpendicular to the horizontal plane of the engine, I.E. straight up at the 12 o'clock position WRT to the centre line of the engine. You line this up with the groove *on the front* of the pulley.. and you are at 90BTDC, at this point the cam alignment marks should be horizontal with the 'exhaust' pointer pointing towards the inlet side.

 

Dave

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Hallelujah!!!!!!!!

 

Oilyhands, I had been using the tdc mark and lining that up with the mark on the front of the pulley. It just didn't seem right.

Just been out to the garage and have now FOUND THE 12o'clock mark as you say - pretty much in line with the mark on the pulley as I left the engine there based on guessing 90 BTDC.

The problem is we have been doing all of this with the engine in so seing the vertical mark is a little tricky - especially if you don't know it's there.

Thank you thank you thank you - I can now go sprinting tomorrow (so long as all else goes smoothly and I haven't done any damage turning the engine over - by hand I hasten to add! - with the cams set as they are)

 

Hoops - thanks for the offer but I just couldn't get to Matt's to look at you car, kind of a catch 22 situation. Seven is off the road, Seven is my only car...

 

All, thanks for the feedback, I was ready to write this weekends sprint off last night buyt I can now see what needs to be done.

 

Any suggestions on a good manual to cover the EU3 engine or is Haynes as good as it gets. I don't want to get stuck in this situation again!

 

NN 😳

Lotus @ Herts

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I know a man, who knows a man, who knows a man (ad Nauseum) who has the Rover official workshop manual for the K series in PDF format, together with Haynes manuals for a lot of popular cars/engines, type '9' gearbox etc in PDF format all on CD. He could be persuaded to cut a copy I suppose.

 

Oily

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Oooh! Could he? That would be very kind!

With what should one cross his palm?

 

Am I likely to have battered any valves being about 30 degs out in the original settings? Everything felt OK on turning the engine by hand but then I've no idea what it take to bend a valve!

 

Thanks again for your kind help!

Guy

 

NN 😳

Lotus @ Herts

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Latest report - all back up and running! Very tappety noise for quite some time after starting but as things warmed up (10-15 mins) plus a quick toddle round the block all sounds nivce and smooth now!

 

Phew!

 

Right - must get ready for the sprint now!

 

Thanks all

Guy

 

NN 😳

Lotus @ Herts

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