12v socket for trickle charger

[willmac]

Hi,

I know this has been covered before quite a lot, but just want to check before I start blowing electrics up !

I am going to place a permanent socket on dash for using trickle charger and running sat nav. Being a total electrical numpty, will I just run positive and neg wires direct to the battery for this, with in line fuse on the +ve ?

If I do it this way , then I guess the neg wire is acting is the earth ? Or am I way off the mark ?

 

Apologies for such numpty questions !

[Ivaan]

Hi Will,

 

Home again?

 

Wiring sounds right.

 

Up for a blat at the w/e?

 

Clive.

[Fil M]

Spot on

[Ian B]

All good, just fit the fuse at the battery end of the positive wire, so it protects the wire as well

 

You can pick up the negative earth from a convenient chassis point (usually the windscreen wiper motor bracket under the LHS of the dash, however for a direct socket I'd wire it direct to the Battery negative.

 

If you have a battery cut-off switch then remember it won't kill the dash socket. Not a problem for road use, and actually useful to plug the battery conditioner into as you suggest), but would probably fail scrutineering at a competition event.

 

Remember if you're using a conventional trickle charger and Banner 'wet' battery, check the battery cell fluid levels regularly as they will drop if on continuous trickle.

 

 

[sicsr]

Just done this and took a wire from the fusebox 15 on my CSR which is a power socket, or any live from the fusebox would do, scotch locked a wire on it that is the live and fixed a wire to bulkhead under the dash which formd the earth. Cut hole and bobs yer uncle, dont have to bother with ugly wires to your battery then.

[willmac]

Thanks for replies gents,

 

I was recommended a 20 amp in line fuse on the +ve wire close to the battery from an auto elect shop.

Would this be the only one to use, or would I be better to go to a 10 amp as well closer to the power socket ?

 

Only reason I ask is that I have seen in some posts talking only of a 10 amp fuse only

 

Cheers

 

Edited by - willmac on 23 May 2012 14:58:53

[Ian B]

Depends on the size of your cable.

If it's rated at 20amp or above, then you can use a 20amp fuse. although I doubt you'll need to use anything that draws over 10amps anyway.

Don't fit two fuses in the circuit, just one at the battery end.

 

I use a 10amp (I think!) and it seems to be fine - if you find something that you use causes the 10 amp fuse to blow, and your cable is rated at 20+ amps, then you can easily change it for a 20amp fuse (but I wouldn't go any higher).

 

Not sure about CSR fusebox wiring, but you may find the fusebox terminal is an ignition switched supply (or FIA switched) in which case it won't be any use for trickle charging

 

[Pierson]

In a similar but far more proasaic, less technical vein: has anyone sourced/installed an under-dash 12V socket bracket rather than cutting another hole in the dash itself? Any recommendations at all?

 

Pierson

[Ged]

Mine has one fitted in the passenger side knee trim. Nicely out of the way of the dash, but easy for a passenger to catch their knee on.

[Drumster]

Mine's fitted into the wiper motor bracket, but then I don't have the motor in situ as I'm screenless....

[Bricol]

Quadruple extension lead type one, tye-wrapped to the front of the heater case, below and between the cockpit vents, cable to fused conection in extended fusebox. Easy to reach, out of the way, and no extra holes.

 

Scotchlocks 😳

 

Bri

[Ian B]

I fitted two through the bulkhead to the left of the fusebox (on a 2001 SV) and they're easy to wire in the engine bay as well.

Also have one in the dash for easy access, and one in the boot 😳

 

[Wrightpayne]

Pierson,

 

 

I have a Sutars surface mounted outlet. Comes in it's own plastic housing.

 

 

Ian

[Bob L]

Cut a hole in the dash for mine purely because I wanted something permanent that was easy to reach and

a) without having to undo seat belts when in transit

b) easier to plug in the trickle charger when out of the car

c) no additional box projections in foot well

d) secure wiring behind the dash is preferable

 

The hole was cut in minutes with careful measuring for suitable clearance. The worst part was doing up the nuts to hold in place, would use self tappers in future 😶‍🌫️

User a socket that is weather proof and it’s a good storage area for fresh ear plugs

 

[Roger Ford]

Things that might use more than 10A:

- A compressor (either the tyre type or the air bed type)

- A 240v inverter (150W is 12.5A even before efficiency losses)

- A 12v fan heater

 

That's probably about it. I'm assuming you're not likely to be using a 12v microwave, coffee maker, satellite TV system or any of the more esoteric 12v goodies you can find.

[Pierson]

Thanks to all for their advice.

 

Ian - the SUTARS surface-mounting unit looks as if it might fit the bill, thanks for the heads-up.

 

Pierson

[Dr Slotter]

Quoting sicsr: 

Just done this and took a wire from the fusebox 15 on my CSR which is a power socket, or any live from the fusebox would do, scotch locked a wire on it that is the live and fixed a wire to bulkhead under the dash which formd the earth. Cut hole and bobs yer uncle, dont have to bother with ugly wires to your battery then.

 

Is there a particular reason why more people haven't suggested this method? (rather than the 'wires to the battery' method)

[Roger Ford]

Because Scotchlocks are to reliable wiring as Pot Noodles are to gourmet food.

[Dr Slotter]

 

I really meant the 'direct into the power slot on the fuse box' method.

[Roger Ford]

Not sure I understand - are you saying there's a spare fuse in the fusebox with nothing connected? If so that would be highly suitable, though if you're putting the socket through the bukhead then the fusebox is the wrong side of the bulkhead. Would be fine if the socket's actually in the dash.

[Dr Slotter]

I was wondering why most people seemed to be running wires with in-line fuses from the battery where there seemed to be either a spare fuse slot or a specific power socket fuse on the Caterham fuse boxes.

 

I think I've not necessarily noticed whether people are installing the dash or bulkhead which, as you say Roger, would make the decision for you.

 

I've just been out to look at my car (2009 RS SV 175), on my ongoing quest to get familiar with it, and there is a purple/green wire disappearing into the loom from the bottom (O) fuse (10A). I imagine this ends up in the boot somewhere as has been variously described. The fuse is marked 'Power Socket' and all of this matches up to the wiring diagram.

 

In this case, if I wanted to install a dash-mounted 12v socket, why wouldn't I simply remove the wires that are already there and run the equivalent wires the 6"-8" from the socket to the fuse box? Is it because you'd then have to have the ignition switched on to use an Optimate or similar?

 

Edited by - Dr Slotter on 11 Jun 2012 21:48:04

[Ian B]

Depends on whether you have an FIA switch (or battery isolator) and want to use the socket for battery charging/maintenance as that would kill the fusebox supplies.

 

Not sure whether the newer cars that have a 12v socket fuse have it fed from an ignition switched supply, but if it is then the same battery charging use would be ruled out as you suggest.

 

[brianmurray325hotmail.com]

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Din_Connectors.html

Heres what i used, mounted it on the bulkhead under the dash on the passenger side, i can still access it when in the drivers seat, so didn't deface the dash! wiring is a short distsnce to the battery, Its out of sight of the general public (so doesn't give a clue that you may have a sat nav stowed somewhere in the car)

[Ian B]

Came across this earlier here, if you want a surface mount one?

 

[sevenmad]

Dr Slotter you are right. On my 2010 Roadsport I used the preinstalled wires for a socket and installed the socket in the left side of the dash. Its a permenant live and can be used to trickle charge with no problem, by far the neatest solution.