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BEC Gearbox problem


Ivaan

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I went for an early a.m. around South Shropshire and was having fun....but

 

get within a couple of miles from home, stopped at a junction. Pull off in 1st...go to get 2nd...no 2nd....no neutral.....it's stuck in 1st gear.

 

Had the bonnet off and checked the linkages ect, all fine, so called the AA.

 

Get the car home, and strip of the selector mechanism. The detent spring is fine and nothing is bent, so it must be bent forks, or problem with the selector drum. I can turn the end of the drum about 1/8th of a rotation in each direction with no resistance whatsoever, then it hits a stop with a clonk. There appears to be no movement in the selector forks or gearbox.

 

It's still stuck in gear.

 

I assume it's bent / broken forks, so it's an engine out and split the crankcase job. ☹️

Anyone done this to a bike engine?

Haynes manual say the head has to come off also, but I can't think why. The camshafts may need to come out, to release the camchain.

 

Any advice welcomed.

 

 

Clive.

 

Off to E-bay to look for another engine *rolleyes*

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haven't done it but would be willing to have a go in your situation. Speak to Malcolm at Yorkshire engines (it's where your original one came from) He'll be able to tell you whether it's worth fixing and if not, supply you with a new one. Clutchless upshifts can be harsh on selector forks if timing is not perfect.

 

 

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Clive

 

I have split the crankcase on my Blackbird and contrary to the manual the head does not have to come off but to get the timing chain off you need to remove the camshafts. I removed the clutch, clutch basket and a few other bits and then undone all the bolts to eventually split the two haves.

 

Have you thought of getting a second hand engine off Ebay and fixing the one in the car in slow time? Expensive but cheaper than fixing a K series. Don't forget that gasket sets and other spares can set you back a decent amount anyway.

 

Nick

 

Nick

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Hi Charlie,

I think I might have fluffed a shift, especially since I was using the paddle Klicktonic system all morning. It's a bit severe. Useful to know where I might get a known engine, I may well call them. I had no idea of it's origine.

 

How's your car going?

 

Nick,

I also know a chap who races sidecars, he had a couple of spare engines that he knew were good, so I've contacted him. I'll cost all the possible parts before starting. Interesting that the head doesn't have to be removed, that'll make the job quiet a bit easier if the R1 is the same as the Blackbird.

 

I'm also on the Yamaha R1 forum, so hope I'll get a bit of knowledge from them too.

 

 

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Ditch the klitronic or you may find that you will be doing this routine over and over.....

 

If your dead set on paddle shift look at a proper closed loop system like the geartronics but that's about £4k 😳

 

 

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Quoting DSL: 
Ditch the klitronic or you may find that you will be doing this routine over and over.....

 

If your dead set on paddle shift look at a proper closed loop system like the geartronics but that's about £4k 😳

 

 

*arrowup* another vote for ditching the Klictronic *arrowup*

 

Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 5 May 2012 21:25:10

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Sorry to hear this ☹️

 

Total failure does point to the selector drum / pins doesn't it ?

 

Bent forks tend to manifest as jumping out of gear. Although maybe you broke the fork as the actuator smashed in the gear.

 

Can you get the sump off and sieve out any bits to identify ?

 

 

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I don't think I'll find out what's happened until the crankcasing is split.

 

I'm looking for another engine, so I can use the car in all the hot weather coming up. Also, got a trip to Spain booked in September.

 

Then I'll take my time and re-build the engine, as a spare.

 

It's just finding a "good" engine. I'll contact Yorkshire Engine's this week, though there is an interesting one on fleabay.

 

I think the Klicktronic is fine in the higher gears, but at low speed, it's too agressive.

 

Cheers,

 

Clive.

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Too aggressive in the lower gears, but fine in the higher you say is exactly the reason you go for a closed loop system.

 

It doesn't just have one ignition cut & shift time as it actively monitors the gearbox drum position then tapers the cut & shift time to avoid smashing the box up, expensive but the only correct way to do the job *thumbup*

 

If you haven't already done so I would suggest you read through all the info on the Geartronics site before deciding to refit what you already have........

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Hi Clive, I just re-read your original post, sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but have you checked that the clutch is disengaging properly? That could cause the problems you're describing ( you say it's still stuck in 1st ) . I presume you know that you have to be moving to change gear. If the car is stationary with the ignition off, you might have to rock the car back and forth to get it into neutral.
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