TomB Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 The car is a 1996 1.4 K SS with a dry sump, with the Bell housing catch tank. I have decided the oil I want to use - Syner G or Mobil 1. I cant find a sump nut where I expect one. Where do I drain the oil out of? There is a wired, round nut thing under the gearbox. Is this the gear box oil drain or is the engine oil drain point? If this is the gear box oil drain, do I have to disconnect the oil hoses to drain the engine oil, as there is no other obvious way? Can someone confirm that with a dry sump there is no foam baffle fitted? Where do I fill with oil - the catch tank on the bell housing or the oil cap on the top of the engine? Cheers!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 Okay Tom. 1) Minister (ahem) "Do not have a problem with people using oil that is not Comma, although this is Caterham's choice. If someone were to use, say Mobil 1 Motorsport then we would tend to agree that that too is a good oil for a K series." 2) The oil is drained from the bell housing by removing the blue plate underneath. These are an allen key fitment. 3) The oil is drained from the little sump pan by removing the plug under the engine. 4) The filter is removed and replaced and I like to remove the oil supply pipe at the bottom of the engine and give it a flush (just in case of swarf again!) 5) Clean any gunk off the blue plate and the tower bottom, add a touch of instant gasket or something and bolt it back on. 6) Pop the plug back into the engine with a nice new washer and fill the little rascal up with oil. 7) Whip the coil lead off to stop it firing and build oil pressure; add a sensible amount of oil to a rough level and.... 8) fire it up. Run for a bit and stop the engine. Check the level and top up as required. (Oh yeah, forgot to mention; use the dry sump tank tower to fill the engine as you are filling the tank remember, not the sump as in an ordinary car......) Done. Edited by - Julian Thompson on 21 Oct 2002 22:58:08 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 21, 2002 Author Share Posted October 21, 2002 Cheers, very helpful instructions. I dont understand point 3, as I couldnt see a plug under the engine. Which end of the engine is it & how big is it? Is it fairly obvious? Wont check blatchat again tonight cos its bedtime!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 I wholeheartedly agree with Julian's comments. I didn't know there was a drain plug as well (worrying since I ought to have seen one, my last job was a head gasket and the oil had turned to mayonnaise) and I ended up pulling the oil hoses off. The only thing that Julian omits is to be VERY careful when you remove the blue plate as it will come off with a pop and dump all the oil very quickly all over the garage floor (and you). It's probably best to take out 3 of the 4 bolts and just loosen the 4th before cracking the seal. The most important thing is to spin the engine with the ignition disabled so you get some oil pressure before running it, that way you don't have to listen to the sound of your camshaft wearing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 OK! Night Night Tom....... PS The plug is at the back of the engine literally grinning at you from under Mr Sump Pan. It is black, and started life as a Ford Sierra item, I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 Oh, you spoiled the fun for him now . Now he'll get away without a single problem and wont even get to play the "hunt for the blue plate in the oil slick that used to be your garage floor" game..... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 The sump plug is only fitted to very recent variants of the k-series dry sump. Tom's will not have one. Refill the bellhousing tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 22, 2002 Author Share Posted October 22, 2002 Cheers chaps! Off to buy some oil & filter. Will silicon sealant do to reseal the blue plate, or do I need to get some Instant Gasket paste? When re screwing it all, what should the Allen screws be tightened to? Will I need to undo any of the hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted October 22, 2002 Share Posted October 22, 2002 *silicone sealant* is variable in terms of fitness for purpose. Buy some blue Loctite instant gasket. Smear some oil onto the blue plate then apply the instant gasket to the belltank, sparingly but so that even coverage is obtained. This way the blue plate will come off cleanly next time leaving the gasket in place on the belltower. I still replace it but it is easier this way. Didn't know about the sump plug; thanks Peter. Tigten the allen bolts to a firm pinch; don't swing on them! (If you must, I'd guess at 8lbft but wait for someone else to confirm this is okay before you rush out with your torque wrench....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted October 23, 2002 Share Posted October 23, 2002 The earlier blue plates utilise a rubber o-ring and NO silicone sealant. This is re-useable a few times (2 or 3) but tends to stretch over time making refitting more difficult. You can tell which sealing system you should have (even if someone has failed to replace the o-ring in the past) because once you have removed the blue plate, the bottom of the bellhousing has a neat little groove machined into it, around the opening. To empty the sump pan, simply remove the front aeroquip hose and jack the rear of the car up a little. Tip: Removing the allen bolts holding the blue plate on can sometimes be difficult on an older car if they have ever touched the road. You should gently tap the end of an allen key into the bolt head until secure enough to undo. It'll help to reshape the bolt head. I've had to do this each time, but I am a fat git so the underside of my car may become one-with-the-road more often than some. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 26, 2002 Author Share Posted October 26, 2002 I finally got round to starting this job today, only to find that I cant get the 2 front allen nuts loosened on the front of the blue plate. I am worried about grinding the recess out & the nuts being permanantly buggered. To be safe, can i drain the bell housing oil by undoing the oil hose at the bell housing end, followed by draining at the front of the sump pan by the same? Will I get most of ot out this way, and do i need any washers etc for the oil pipes. Is this a recommended course of action?? Today is an example of when Blatchat connection in the garage would be great. Is that what all the Formula 1 laptops are for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted October 26, 2002 Share Posted October 26, 2002 Tom, If you need a hand tomorrow, let me know. I can pop over after about 1pm if that helps. regards, ~Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 26, 2002 Author Share Posted October 26, 2002 Hi Martin, Give me ring if you fancy coming round. hopefully I will get it sorted by draining the oil through the hose connections. I have lost my mobile (calls divert to landline), so I havnt your number. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted October 27, 2002 Author Share Posted October 27, 2002 Stuck again! Not only cant I get the allen nuts to budge, also I cant shift the oil hose bolts!! There is a third oil pipe from the sump to the oil pump with a jubilee fastener. Assuming I could get this off, could I take the spark plugs out then turn the engine over by hand or on the starter to pump the oil out? This is obviously not desireable cos the engine will be turning with low oil as it comes out. How about getting an oil pump from DT (£15) & pumping it out of the catch tank? How much of the total 4 litre oil capacity is held in the bell housing catch tank? Nothing is easy, unless I am just inept. 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted October 27, 2002 Share Posted October 27, 2002 Do you need an extra pair of hands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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