PACR Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 What are the special sockets required for the K-series through bolts? Are they standard TORX bits - in which case what size, and are there lots of different sizes used throughout the engine (making purchase of a set rather than one offs more economical)? I appear to have a very slight weep from the cylinder head / block joint at the very front of the engine just above the alternator bracket. There's no coolent in the oil or vice versa, but as I've got the sump off I might as well swap the gasket. Will the Rover dealer supply the correct gasket set or will Caterham do a set specially for this application? Is this a simplejob or are we talking easy off - ages to replace due to setting up cams etc. I suppose at 18k miles a belt change wouldn't hurt. Any advice would be most welcome... Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 E12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 This is a head gasket failure, but only the silicone rubber bits have failed. A new Rover or uprated Mike Satur gasket is immune to this failure. You need to check the head is not warped, but apart from that it is a standard remove and refit. A cam locking tool makes life much easier. Changing the timing belt means getting the front pulley off, which is difficult with the engine in situ because you need to lock the flywheel. Disassemble with the crank on its assembly mark of 90deg BTDC. You cannot move the crank after disassembly unless you make up liner clamps (bits of tube with washers at each end do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 The Sature gasket is Still better than the new Rover version as the sature gasket has the rubber perforating the stainless gasket and providing a stronger bond . DVA has the gaskets or sature his self . We did my front pulley bolt up by chocking the rear wheels and holding the brakes on . Or the flywheel can be locked by removing the starter motor and making a angled bracket . You also need a 20Nm torque wrench for the head studs . Should have it all done in around 7 hours ( with plenty of fag and tea breaks ! ) Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACR Posted October 21, 2002 Author Share Posted October 21, 2002 Cheers guys. I noticed a bit of orange rubber beading hanging from where the drip was appearing - I assume this is the silicon rubber bit you refer to Peter. I'll see if I can pick up an improved gasket from DVA. Might just settle for a belt inspection then........ Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 I would change the belt. If you can get your hands on an electric impact wrench type thing it might make the pulley bolt removal easier as the "brakes on" technique reverses the normal loading on the clutch straps and the springiness in the clutch plate makes it somewhat marginal as a process. Make sure you clean up the threads and refit with loctite though as it is embarrassing for the front pulley to fall off. The bit of rubber seal that you can see copes with the seepage from the oil feed from the pump up to the head, so the rubber sees high pressure. Both the Satur and current over gasket have removed an offending bit of rubber seal, allowing seepage to return to the sump without putting the external seal under pressure. You will also replace the plastic dowels with steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 On the subject of tools - I've found its always cheapest in the long run to buy the whole set. I started with a tiny toolkit and bought the odd sockect here and there until i've got a full set. It would have been half the cost to buy it all up front. At least I'd learned this lesson with ratchet spanners - Halfrauds wanted 20 quid each or something stupid when i wanted 3. So i bought the set of 6 for 64 quid instead... HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 I bought a complete Halfrauds 100 odd piece set last Autum in the Sale - 20% off . Maybe they will have a similar deal agin this year ?? Great tools and nice to use Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 You need an E12 socket - www.northerntoolcompany.co.uk or similar do a set for under a tenner. The bolts are VERY tight. A cam locking tool is nice but I made one up which is adequte for removing the head if not the camshafts. The crank pulley came off mine using the "in-gear-wheels-chocked-bl*dy-great-tommy bar" method. Good luck - anyone who can do this in 7 or 8 hours has done it before and knows exactly what he is doing. It took me a few evenings and afternoons. The timing belt is especially amusing. A manual is IMO essential for this - I found, surprisingly, that the 214 Hades manual is very accurate, if badly laid out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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