pug7 Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 2 weeks to go..... So bit of help request - dinitrol I assume its the 3125 that people plaster the car in - how much is req ? 1 litre be enough or 2 ltrs be better ? Whats the factory finish like underneath the car does it need coating with anything to stop stones/chips/corrosion etc ? I read somewhere about sticking sheets of rubber under wheel arches to stop the star shaped chips from stones in the fibre glass - any one done this or suggetions on the rubber/glue to do that ? Any recommendations for heat proofing the footwell on an SV ? seems to be a few comments of it getting hot around the feet. seatbelts - dont want the standard inertia reel - are the caterhan quick release 4 point any good or any other suggestions ? Thanks for suggetions in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Things I should of done in the begining. My biggest regret was not covering the car immediately after it was built with paint protection film. After three years I have now had the car tidied up and applied the film. Expensive lesson if you want to keep the paintwork in good condition. Another related tip is don't always follow others when out on a blat (take the lead 😬), this is how the car gets peppered the most with stones flicked up by the sticky tyres in front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 What paint film did you use ? that was another thought but forgot to mention it on my posting ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Protection film from here Either fit it yourself (not easy, you need plenty of patience) or get them to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10uptobase Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 totally agree about paint film. i am going to get a respray at some point as 10k has peppered my nearside ( sigma with off side exhaust) on top of that, try to get a touch up- no chance! 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Stone chips are just patina.....don't worry about it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Stone chips are just patina.....don't worry about it! Wear your scars with pride - they show you are living life to the full, not whimping out. Living life on the edge will always leave its mark - and I love it! 😬 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juleslid Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Hi Pug 7, late entrant I know but I've been away. Lots of good advice from the guys. I may be near you (I'm near Macc in Cheshire) if you want to have a look at things in the flesh. My second build (Roadsport 175) is in my garage, although not running too well at the moment... Jules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted May 11, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted May 11, 2012 It should come with the heatproofing already fitted. For rear wings Isoflex roofing goo from B+Q. Couple of coats, jobs good. Dont forget the tools they dont tell you about - 14mm allen key (to cut down) for the diff filler plug, 6mm ball ended allen socket for front damper top mounts, oh and the gearbox filler plug - cut down the 10mm allen key per the guide but use the offcut with a 10mm spanner and ditch the big bit - there really is f all space, filled mine today (didn't realise it would take so long to fill). Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted May 11, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just remembered, when you get to the rear flexible brake hose, it fits the same as the front ones ie only put plain washer one side with shakeproof the other. This is incorrectly described in the brand new 05/12 manual - gave CC the feedback today!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 thanks for all the hints and tips guys. most things sorted now, just huge torque wrench to loan when the time comes. in the mean time, 7 days to delivery !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted May 21, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted May 21, 2012 Last few bits then - high density foam rip tied to the axle stands to protect the powder coat on the chassis. Loads of wide masking tape to stick the cardboard all over the body work to protect your paint work and to put all around the front suspension holes. Foam pipe insulation for the engine bay to protect all the lovely black tube work - old sheets to cover it all up when you are not working on it. Finally - dependng on your age - you may want some soft flooring or thick faom kneeling pads for those hours you will spend knelt down!! All the best - be sure to let us know when it arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander Gurr Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Pug7....have a look at my Blog here. I went through the build about 10 months ago, so much of it is still very fresh in my mind. Let me know if I can be of any help at all Cheers, Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Garry, All those bits you list - done,bought,here etc courtesy to the heads up pointers from other posters. Garaged cleared floor lovely coat of epoxy battleship grey, 4 axle stands there just seems to be missing something - oh yeah a 7 chassis die to delays in the paint shop at caterham so an extra week to wait due to work i carnt be home this week. not long i guess though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Not long normally, but an eternity to wait for a Seven kit 😬 Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted May 21, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted May 21, 2012 Foam pipe lagging is good for protecting chassis tubes and top of engine bay during the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 3 days to go, going to be a looooong weekend ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 24hrs to go.... I hope the caterham truck ends up in the spotted section heading up the m6....... Not really the weather, but I guess the first job is dinitrol apart from the obvious like dont put it on the paintwork, any points in particular to give a good coating before i start bolting bits on ? (sod the weather, ive been waiting too long for the 7 to arrive!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1360rallye Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 I made up couple of alloy plates to blank off the gap between the sides of the footwell and the sideskin - which are grot traps. Just glued them on with silicone seal after spraying lots of Dinitrol in the gap. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Well officially an owner at last 😬 😬. Seem to be a lot of parts and boxes all over the garage most seems to be there except the obvious - a build manual would of been useful ! phone call in the morning time.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 yep, sounds familiar.....I had to phone Sean a number of times re missing parts etc. He was always helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Sean will be your new best friend for several weeks, you will call him almost on a daily basis. Enjoy the build, feel free to ask anything on here. Good luck Edited by - Domus on 28 May 2012 22:35:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 If you can't wait, the.manual and the IVA guide are both downloadable from the caterham web site. Regards Mark Ps had my post build check today so it's all still very fresh in my mind. One tip, go out tomorrow and give the diff a good kicking. You will feel better later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 The diff doesn't have to be that hard a job to put in. I've had mine in and out so many times in the last 2 years. Just remember a few things: 1. You can't get the propshaft into the tunnel if one end is blocked by the gearbox and the other end is blocked by the diff, so you have to slide it in before you put them both in place. 2. You can lift the diff up on a trolley jack, then slide a screwdriver through the mountings to hold it in place, then remove them one by one as you replace them with bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted May 29, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted May 29, 2012 Quoting charlie_pank: 1. You can't get the propshaft into the tunnel if one end is blocked by the gearbox and the other end is blocked by the diff, so you have to slide it in before you put them both in place. Not quite correct. In my experience you can only get the propshaft in from the rear (diff end). so put propshaft in the transmission tunnel before you fit the diff. You can't get it in from gearbox end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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