pug7 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Hi All, The delivery is approaching of my first 7 kit so a request to you all out there. Anything you would or wouldnt do during the build? or hints tips suggestions etc? Also - on the fluids front - what would you recommend for the oils etc to complete the build ? thanks in advance ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Don't CC sell (include ?) a first fill fluids pack with a new kit ? A few people have done blogs on their recent builds - do a search and read these - they will have written about things both good and bad ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 1. Put the propshaft in the tunnel BEFORE the diff is put in. The prop will not go in after the diff. I can't remember how I know this . 2. Do the corrosion proofing before the build. 3. Take your time, I had booked my SVA when the kit arrived and I ended up working late to get it complete, this took the fun out of the build. 4. Blatchat is your friend, there are some incredibly knowledgeable people in the club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Ian, I didn't get a fluid pack with mine, had to get it separately. CC sell one though. So pug7, what did you get? 😬 Top tip from me: Get a big tub of coppaslip 😬 I found that the car started looking like a car very quickly. The stuff that took the time was the soft stuff and trim - boot lid, seats, wing protectors, cycle wings... Try to alternate the side you start on for each part of the car, as the second time you do something it will be better and you don't want a perfect side and a crap side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Propshaft first, Diff afterwards Paint protection film on rear wings. Sikaflex cycle wings on with Big Heads. Store all the fibreglass bits and the bonnet in the spare room, then lock the door. Use a 'load leveller' when lowering the engine into the car - makes it easy. Remove the engine mounts before trying to squeeze the engine in between the chassis rails! Richy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted April 2, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted April 2, 2012 Read the assembly guide. Then read it again. Then read it again. When I built my car, I requested a a copy of the assembly guide a few weeks before the kit was delivered. Now its easy, you simply download it! If you have spec.ed a track day roll bar, fit that first, then the seat back carpet, then the boot cover. Once they're done, start at the front of the assembly guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I'll start with most basic tip....a bit of old carpet taped to the top of the axle stands to protect the powdercoat finish on the chassis as it will be on the stands for a while (but hopefuly not too long ) When things get tough....down tools & have a cuppa. As well as blatchat Sean at caterham will become your friend. I must have rung him 20 times, mostly about missing parts...which to his credit usualy turned up the following day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 2, 2012 Member Share Posted April 2, 2012 Great advice above, especially about stopping to think when something isn't clear or you're tired. Treating yourself to the right tool rather than the "about right" tool can make some jobs a lot easier. Check the packs in enough time to get the missing bits delivered by when you need them. Good lighting underneath. Carpet the floor (or something posher to taste) Test run bolts through threads before assembling on the car. And (without reopening any of the other sort of threads): protect your eyes, disconnect the battery when you play with the electrics, and have the right sort of fire extinguisher in the right place. Enjoy the build Jonathan PS: Whereabouts are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Update your location so that other owners/builders nearby can pop round to help/shrug shoulders/eat biscuits/chuckle etc 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Ditto that on location. Someone nearby will probably have an engine hoist they can lend you when required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Have a look at this page for some great tips on what to do as you build Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Reeves Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 ensure you have the right pics/instructions for a BMW diff ! some of the new data does not get into the manual on time...and the make sure you have spacers for the drive shafts, a later mod. I suffered both of these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 head torch big torque wrench small torque wrench good metric sockets and driver with extensions and universal joint ratchet ring-spanners and plain ring-spanners pair of ramps pair of axle-stands deffo waterproof before construction if doing a lot of riveting (eg floor) get a rivet adaptor for your drill when fitting diff, use a long screwdriver or thin bar to hold it in position in the mounts rather than trying to get the bolts straight in take your time, if it's not working, go away and think about it/talk it over or do another task use the right tool for the right job get a whiteboard and use it to remind yourself where you left off and things you might forget to do. good luck and enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I should have also mentioned that if you haven't already got a good socket set then Halfords have their 150piece set for £100 again, if you get the vouchers then it is £90. A great bit of kit as much of what you need is always to hand. Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedCat7 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Expect parts shortages/errors. The Assembly Guide looks nice but often make no sense, it's not just you being dumb. Sill protectors - mark them up on the car then remove for drilling, rather than the AG method of using the hole in the inner skin as a drill bush. Edited by - RedCat7 on 2 Apr 2012 21:07:45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespeed Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Make sure you tape with low tack tape the side panels around where you fit through the front suspension to protect your lovely paintwork during assembly. Don't forget to fit the diff breather assuming you have one on these new sigma things my K series certainly did, fitting it afterwardss tricky! Mark the bolts/nuts you have fully tightened and torqued with a spot of yellow paint so you know they are tight. Get some helpful friends, two or three heads much better than one. Enjoy the project, most of us only do it once in our lives!! Simon N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 thanks for the info so far, and my spec is now on my signature. roll on may Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 seal the grot traps as the first job then tap all the threads then cover the chassis in protection tap / sponge etc use the absolute minimum of silicon to stick the SVA crap on. sit in the car each morning before going to work and make Brrrmm Brmmm noises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Downing Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Quoting Martin Jeffrey: When things get tough....down tools & have a cuppa. As well as blatchat Sean at caterham will become your friend. I must have rung him 20 times, mostly about missing parts...which to his credit usualy turned up the following day Quoting charlie_pank: take your time, if it's not working, go away and think about it/talk it over or do another task These are the most important bits of advice. There are moments when it just won't work/won't fit/can't fit etc etc. Stop, walk away, put the kettle on, post it on Blatchat, drink the tea, read the replies, and have a think. I lost count of how many times an easy solution popped into my head once I stopped bashing it with the soft-faced hammer and had a cuppa instead. Other retrospective thoughts that I had after my build were here: http://www.caterham-build.co.uk/article/Reflections.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Make sure your large torque wrench (for the rear drive shaft nuts) does left and right threads as mine only worked in one direction (forget which!) and I ended up stripping the thread - expensive mistake! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Make lots of use of the technical help line (i.e. Caterham Midlands). The number of times I spent ages trying to work out why the manual didn't quite seem to make sense given the actual bits in front of me only to have Caterham say "oh yes, it's changed. Try this..." btw - the "new" manual published end the end of last year was already out of date at the point it was released. Draw your own conclusions about how accurate it is likely to be after 6 months (one case in point - I know of at least one new paint job needed due to the fact that the front brake lines didn't seal properly if built as per the manual and brake fluid leaked/sprayed onto the side skin. The flexible lines had less screw thread than they used to apparently). If something doesn't feel/look quite right then check... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Garry7 Posted April 4, 2012 Leadership Team Share Posted April 4, 2012 to all the above. Key thing is not to rush. The assembly guide as supplied plus the downloaded one are not always as clear as they should be! If at all unclear call Sean, he will often go out into the factory and take pictures of cars on the line for you. I have loads that make things so much easier to understand. Dont worry too much about having bits left over - your parts packs will have stuff for most models. The guides do not always refer to the parts packs consistently, Sean will be able to help here - on the rear suspension the pack numbers have changed slightly so check before proceeding (just done mine so learnt this very recently). Currently working on the hood / interior, had mispicked nuts in the roll bar installation pack. If it doesnt fit it may not be you being daft, again check with Sean. Most importantly take loads of pictures to remind you of the achievement when you have it on the road. Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Iain McCallum Posted April 4, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted April 4, 2012 I completed my Roadsport SV build last July and can tell you that even though you think you have the tools for the job, invariably you don't! The diff was the hardest to get in and for that definitely don't be afraid to use a big hammer, and grind the bolt to a point! Also I laid some cushion type interlocking tiles (from Machine Mart) that makes everything much more comfortable (especially knees!) I am near Marple in Cheshire so if you want a chat (or to borrow tools) then please get in touch. Always good to talk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug7 Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 thanks for the hints and tips so far ! 6 weeks to delivery not that im counting..... As for corrosion proofing - any advice as to what an where ? im guessing/leaning towards the dinatrel stuff - any leads on how much i need/ which variety / where to spray squirt the stuff etc ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I bought 4 cans of Dinitrol 3125 and have plenty left. It does seem very effective but doesn't look very nice. I also bought the 4941, but I don't like it much. I sprayed all over exposed aluminium along the engine bay sides, beside and behind the fuel tank, all around under the rear of the car before the springs etc were put on, transmission tunnel etc... After spraying the grot traps seal them somehow. I used self adhesive heat shield to try and reduce the footwell temperatures too. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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