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my 1st 7 build


pug7

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Hi All,

 

The delivery is approaching of my first 7 kit so a request to you all out there.

 

Anything you would or wouldnt do during the build? or hints tips suggestions etc?

 

Also - on the fluids front - what would you recommend for the oils etc to complete the build ?

 

thanks in advance !

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1. Put the propshaft in the tunnel BEFORE the diff is put in. The prop will not go in after the diff. I can't remember how I know this *redface*.

2. Do the corrosion proofing before the build.

3. Take your time, I had booked my SVA when the kit arrived and I ended up working late to get it complete, this took the fun out of the build.

4. Blatchat is your friend, there are some incredibly knowledgeable people in the club.

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Ian, I didn't get a fluid pack with mine, had to get it separately. CC sell one though.

 

So pug7, what did you get? 😬

 

Top tip from me: Get a big tub of coppaslip 😬

 

I found that the car started looking like a car very quickly. The stuff that took the time was the soft stuff and trim - boot lid, seats, wing protectors, cycle wings... Try to alternate the side you start on for each part of the car, as the second time you do something it will be better and you don't want a perfect side and a crap side *tongue*

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*thumbup* Propshaft first, Diff afterwards *redface*

Paint protection film on rear wings.

Sikaflex cycle wings on with Big Heads.

Store all the fibreglass bits and the bonnet in the spare room, then lock the door.

Use a 'load leveller' when lowering the engine into the car - makes it easy.

Remove the engine mounts before trying to squeeze the engine in between the chassis rails!

Richy

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Read the assembly guide.

 

Then read it again.

 

Then read it again.

 

When I built my car, I requested a a copy of the assembly guide a few weeks before the kit was delivered. Now its easy, you simply download it!

 

If you have spec.ed a track day roll bar, fit that first, then the seat back carpet, then the boot cover. Once they're done, start at the front of the assembly guide.

 

 

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I'll start with most basic tip....a bit of old carpet taped to the top of the axle stands to protect the powdercoat finish on the chassis as it will be on the stands for a while (but hopefuly not too long *wink*)

 

When things get tough....down tools & have a cuppa. As well as blatchat Sean at caterham will become your friend. I must have rung him 20 times, mostly about missing parts...which to his credit usualy turned up the following day *thumbup*

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Great advice above, especially about stopping to think when something isn't clear or you're tired.

 

Treating yourself to the right tool rather than the "about right" tool can make some jobs a lot easier.

 

Check the packs in enough time to get the missing bits delivered by when you need them.

 

Good lighting underneath.

 

Carpet the floor (or something posher to taste)

 

Test run bolts through threads before assembling on the car.

 

And (without reopening any of the other sort of threads): protect your eyes, disconnect the battery when you play with the electrics, and have the right sort of fire extinguisher in the right place.

 

Enjoy the build

 

Jonathan

 

PS: Whereabouts are you?

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head torch

big torque wrench

small torque wrench

good metric sockets and driver with extensions and universal joint

ratchet ring-spanners and plain ring-spanners

pair of ramps

pair of axle-stands

 

deffo waterproof before construction

if doing a lot of riveting (eg floor) get a rivet adaptor for your drill

when fitting diff, use a long screwdriver or thin bar to hold it in position in the mounts rather than trying to get the bolts straight in

 

take your time, if it's not working, go away and think about it/talk it over or do another task

 

use the right tool for the right job

 

get a whiteboard and use it to remind yourself where you left off and things you might forget to do.

 

good luck and enjoy!

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Expect parts shortages/errors.

The Assembly Guide looks nice but often make no sense, it's not just you being dumb.

Sill protectors - mark them up on the car then remove for drilling, rather than the AG method of using the hole in the inner skin as a drill bush.

 

Edited by - RedCat7 on 2 Apr 2012 21:07:45

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Make sure you tape with low tack tape the side panels around where you fit through the front suspension to protect your lovely paintwork during assembly.

 

Don't forget to fit the diff breather assuming you have one on these new sigma things my K series certainly did, fitting it afterwardss tricky!

 

Mark the bolts/nuts you have fully tightened and torqued with a spot of yellow paint so you know they are tight.

 

Get some helpful friends, two or three heads much better than one.

 

Enjoy the project, most of us only do it once in our lives!!

Simon N

 

 

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seal the grot traps as the first job

 

then tap all the threads

 

then cover the chassis in protection tap / sponge etc

 

use the absolute minimum of silicon to stick the SVA crap on.

 

sit in the car each morning before going to work and make Brrrmm Brmmm noises *thumbup*

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Quoting Martin Jeffrey: 
When things get tough....down tools & have a cuppa. As well as blatchat Sean at caterham will become your friend. I must have rung him 20 times, mostly about missing parts...which to his credit usualy turned up the following day *thumbup*

 

Quoting charlie_pank: 
take your time, if it's not working, go away and think about it/talk it over or do another task

 

These are the most important bits of advice.

 

There are moments when it just won't work/won't fit/can't fit etc etc. Stop, walk away, put the kettle on, post it on Blatchat, drink the tea, read the replies, and have a think. I lost count of how many times an easy solution popped into my head once I stopped bashing it with the soft-faced hammer and had a cuppa instead.

 

Other retrospective thoughts that I had after my build were here: http://www.caterham-build.co.uk/article/Reflections.html

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Make lots of use of the technical help line (i.e. Caterham Midlands). The number of times I spent ages trying to work out why the manual didn't quite seem to make sense given the actual bits in front of me only to have Caterham say "oh yes, it's changed. Try this..."

 

btw - the "new" manual published end the end of last year was already out of date at the point it was released. Draw your own conclusions about how accurate it is likely to be after 6 months (one case in point - I know of at least one new paint job needed due to the fact that the front brake lines didn't seal properly if built as per the manual and brake fluid leaked/sprayed onto the side skin. The flexible lines had less screw thread than they used to apparently). If something doesn't feel/look quite right then check...

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*thumbup* to all the above. Key thing is not to rush. The assembly guide as supplied plus the downloaded one are not always as clear as they should be! If at all unclear call Sean, he will often go out into the factory and take pictures of cars on the line for you. I have loads that make things so much easier to understand. Dont worry too much about having bits left over - your parts packs will have stuff for most models. The guides do not always refer to the parts packs consistently, Sean will be able to help here - on the rear suspension the pack numbers have changed slightly so check before proceeding (just done mine so learnt this very recently). Currently working on the hood / interior, had mispicked nuts in the roll bar installation pack. If it doesnt fit it may not be you being daft, again check with Sean. Most importantly take loads of pictures to remind you of the achievement when you have it on the road.

Enjoy

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I completed my Roadsport SV build last July and can tell you that even though you think you have the tools for the job, invariably you don't!

The diff was the hardest to get in and for that definitely don't be afraid to use a big hammer, and grind the bolt to a point!

Also I laid some cushion type interlocking tiles (from Machine Mart) that makes everything much more comfortable (especially knees!)

I am near Marple in Cheshire so if you want a chat (or to borrow tools) then please get in touch. Always good to talk.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the hints and tips so far !

 

6 weeks to delivery not that im counting.....

 

As for corrosion proofing - any advice as to what an where ? im guessing/leaning towards the dinatrel stuff - any leads on how much i need/ which variety / where to spray squirt the stuff etc ?

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I bought 4 cans of Dinitrol 3125 and have plenty left. It does seem very effective but doesn't look very nice. I also bought the 4941, but I don't like it much.

 

I sprayed all over exposed aluminium along the engine bay sides, beside and behind the fuel tank, all around under the rear of the car before the springs etc were put on, transmission tunnel etc...

 

After spraying the grot traps seal them somehow. I used self adhesive heat shield to try and reduce the footwell temperatures too.

 

Duncan

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