catastrada Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I decided to cool down the oil temperature of my Duratec. Car is S3 chassis, engine is a 2.0L Duratec built by Ammo producing 224hp @ 7.200 rpm (mapped last year by Steve Greenald). This is a track day car only. When push hard the oil T° is between 100° and 107°. (water remains at 80°). Not too much for the engine neither for the oil, but I would like to stay in the 80°-90° range. I find that my gearbox is quite hot too (Quaife 5sp straight cut with alloy case and cover, rebuilt this year by R&R), parlty because of the heat transfer (I think). For those reasons I'm thinking of installing an air/oil cooler in front of my rad. (don't want to go the laminoca route) Any idea on how many rows the oil cooler should have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 If it only hits 107 when you're trying hard, and assuming you're using a proper oil, I would honestly not bother with adding any weight or complexity. Leave it as it is - the oil is good for 120/130. That water temp seems a little low though? I have an Ammo Duratec too, and thought with 300+ bhp I would need an oil cooler too, but it rarely goes over 110 - presumably because of a large dry dump tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catastrada Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Sorry I did not mention that it's dry sumped too (brise oil tank in front of the engine). Leaving it as it is is still an option in my head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I would ask Ammo If you do decide to go down this route, I read this in Hot Rod Magazine today: "Design Engineer Rob Waara says. "You never want to have an external type oil cooler without a thermostat or you'll never get the oil up to temp. That shortens oil life and allows acid build up."" This was in relation to the new SVT 650hp V8 they're sticking in Mustangs next year, but it sounds sensible to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Don't you think I already asked!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catastrada Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 dannylt, what oil grade are you using? I'm using (full synthetic) 5w50, but doing some searches here I've read that Ammo is using 0w30. Edited by - Catastrada on 30 Mar 2012 13:58:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezky Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 don't bother with an oil cooler, fit a Laminova linky Oil warms up faster and is kept at water temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBL Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Hi Catastrada Duratecs from Caterham are supplied with a Modine "donut" oil/coolant heat exchanger. Duratecs from Cosworth are supplied with a Modine "donut" oil/coolant heat exchanger. So that's what I went with. But I think any of the solutions already recommended here will work fine if properly implemented. By the way - you have another Blatmail from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catastrada Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Received, thank you Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I use 5w40, but I'm sure any modern synthetic is fine below 130C. I strongly believe an engine oil cooler will have no effect on your gearbox temperature! Just don't wear shorts . The way I see it, you don't have a problem that needs fixing - your car has always been like that. I've got a heater pad on my dry sump tank that I can use to preheat the oil in winter, but I don't bother this time of year. It's far simpler and weighs almost nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Built two Duratec cars now with laminova's. There is never more than a 5 deg difference between the oil and water. I think it's a perfect solution. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I've built 90 Duratec engines without a Laminova. For me it's the perfect solution! 😬 Joking apart, where is it written that you need to run the oil and water temperatures 5 degrees apart? The testing I was involved in during the '90's showed that for maximum power this was not the case. There are pros and cons of using a Laminova. Personally I look at them as adding cost, weight and complication. The nice thing is the fact that the oil warms up quicker. I thought of putting a Modine cooler on my road car. I have a few lying around. In the end I couldn't be arsed to do the plumbing and just wait a few minutes longer before giving the engine any stick. Catastrada. In my opinion your oil and water temperatures are fine. I personally would leave it as it is. If this is keeping you awake at night then fit an oil cooler (or a Laminova) but personally I don't think it is neccessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Quoting AMMO: I've built 90 Duratec engines without a Laminova. For me it's the perfect solution! 😬 There are pros and cons of using a Laminova. Personally I look at them as adding cost, weight and complication. The nice thing is the fact that the oil warms up quicker. . Ammo Only 90? you need to get your finger out and get into tripple figures my Lam's don't do anything to warm the oil up until the stat opens at 83 deg but at that point there is a rapid oil temp rise. I think the Modine goes in the bypass circuit which means it's working straight away? J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Unlikely that the numbers for Duratecs built will go into triple figures now as I gave up engine building around a year ago. I still give support to customers with Raceco engines but I'm not looking to doing any more. Never driven a car with a Modine fitted so not quite sure how well it works but your reasoning sounds right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Laminova everytime for me after seeing the resulting engine wear without. The Laminova must have a bigger surface area than the modine, so as jason said as soon as the stat opens my oil temp gauges are moving quickly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 I had a call from a 7 owner last week who fitted one of my kits, he could not believe that his oil temp was at optimum temp 10 mins quicker with the Laminova in place. The added bonus too is that should you have an engine blow up the Laminova can be taken apart, cleaned and reused. In the same situation a conventional cooler would be in the bin. The extra weight is minimal and easily clawed back by upgrading the battery etc Might even add one to my gearbox soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catastrada Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Thank you all for your replies. I will leave it as it is for the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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