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Wrecked Sump - CSR260


rogerwalker

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Not good.. ☹️ .. Hit something lying in the road over the weekend, and the tell-tale oil on the garage floor led me to take a closer look. Sump is a write-off.. 🙆🏻

 

So ... planning to try and tackle the change myself, but would appreciate any thoughts on the process. Have been through TechTalk and seen a couple of the articles but still not completely clear on the extent to which I need to strip back the adjoining components.

 

Do I need to separate the bell-housing from the Engine block, or can I simply remove the bolts that go through into the sump.

 

Similarly for the Timing cover - do I need to remove ancillaries belt, pulleys and timing cover, or can I get away with just removing the bolts that go through into the Sump.

 

Any hints, tips and things to watch out for would be much appreciated.

 

Roger

 

 

 

Edited by - rogerwalker on 16 Mar 2012 15:12:33

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I'm no expert but if it wasn't a show stopper when you hit the debris, I would have thought it would be repairable with a little creative welding 😬 Don't dispair 😶‍🌫️

 

Can't help with the Duratec I'm afraid, but suspect you won't have to remove anything else to get the sump off. I know on the K there are two bolts that go through the bellhousing in to the back of the sump, be careful not to miss these if they're there!

 

Good luck *wavey*

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You need to separate the engine from the bell housing.

Front cover needs to be removed completely.

You need to know that nothing on the timing is keyed and this will need to be retuned etc when putting it back together. Drop me an email if you want to talk about this.

 

Edited by - mic on 16 Mar 2012 12:39:33

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Front cover does not need to be removed at all, I've been down the same road as Roger (not literally!) and had to fit the replacement several times because of "issues". I loosened the bell housing and that gave enough wiggle room to slip the sump in and out. Sealing the front of the sump to the front cover is more tricky but not impossible. This was with a wet sump 2.3L the CSR may be different? Certainly worth a try.

 

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You can not just loosen the bellhousing, the engine needs to be clear by at least an inch. Also there is a 6mm stud that passes from inside the sump forward through the front cover.

Ideally the engine need to be removed. It will a lot easier.

 

Edited by - mic on 16 Mar 2012 13:46:25

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As your car is a CSR, the engine will have to come out. This is simply due to the fact that the scavenge pump in the dry sump base is driven off the timing chain gearchain. Engine out, then separate bellhousing from engine.

 

Here are some articles on blatchat with pictures showing the separated parts.

Pics here here

The dry sump alone is ~£650. I know not good.

 

Rob

 

 

Edited by - RD on 16 Mar 2012 17:34:09

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Thanks for the prompt and helpful responses guys .... Clearly a little more involved than the sump change I did on my old K series a few years back!

 

Time now appears to be against me as I have it booked in with the Two Steves in a little over a week and Wightblat is fast approaching.

 

Need to get under it today and take a proper look at it.

 

Roger

 

 

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