zetec Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Ive been told i can fit a switch to change between senders to gain oil & water temp,just wondering if anyone has done this & dooes it work & how do i do it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Do a search -- has been much discussed before. Basically fit an oil to sender (same as water sender in my k-series) to somewhere suitable like Apollo tank. There is a spare core for this in the loom. Use an indicator toggle switch with neutral mid position. Take feed wire from to gauge and connect it to one side terminal of switch. Run new cable from oil sender to the other side terminal. Run a new cable from centre terminal of switch to temp gauge. Mount switch in dash so it moves from side to side like the indicators do. When mine points towards temp gauge it shows water temp, when it points towards oil pressure gauge it shows oil temp. Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 5 Mar 2012 19:54:20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 you will need another temp sender, the same as for your water, in your oil line, i fitted mine in a boss in the dry sump tank, then an indicater type switch to switch the power from each sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Really great guys,thanks,i did a search with a few topic headings,it didnt find anything,weird but your answers are great. how do you wire it between senders to gauge via switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I have described it in my post !! You just have to work out which is the existing temp signal wire going in to the gauge, as there are several cables. It has been identified in an earlier post about this. If all else fails I can look under the dash, but it may not be for a few days. There should be a spare core from the loom at the front of the engine (low near sump) for Apollo sender, and the other end is under the dash. Use a meter to prove continuity to show you have the right cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 great,thanks i shall check it out tomorrow. ive ordered a switch & a sender from CC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob L Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Slight hijack if I may. This sounds really useful. Anyone done this to a std K series wet sump? Is there anywhere to attach the sender without drilling the sump pan or with just minimal modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I did it to my VX wet sump...just drilled and tapped the sump plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob L Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Sounds a plan - Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I don't think you need an indicator switch a simple ON-ON switch will do, just so you can toggle between oil and water. You will need 3 terminals though. Zetec, do you have the Raceline wet sump? If so you can mount the sender in the sump plug or in the finger filter plug at the front of the sump Essentially what you are trying to do is this: http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/50237/2865272470104747924S500x500Q85.jpg Edited by - Aeroscreens on 6 Mar 2012 12:33:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted March 6, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted March 6, 2012 I have a sender in the apollo tank and a switch, as described. However I found a non-latching switch, so temp defaults to water but I can check the oil temp. Release the switch and the gauge is back to water temp. I do have a problem finding a good earth for the sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Coxall Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Myself, Jerry and Paul have all recently done this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Chris is right on the wiring (that's frightening!) you only need a SPDT on-on or changeover switch. I used a push-button with mechanical "magic" indicating button to show orange when it is measuring Oil temp RS 339-443 I'm not sure about the sensor (I don't do oily bits ) but ISTR mine isn't on the Apollo tank Edited to correct link Edited by - Ian B on 6 Mar 2012 13:35:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I was advised to use a 3-position switch to get a definite 'break' between each sensor - and it gives you a handy spare switch in case you break the indicator switch ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Not sure who told you that Ian but it's b****** (I think that's the French word 😳) Most changeover switches will break-before-make, but it won't matter if it doesn't! Only danger with a 3-pos switch is you could accidentally leave or knock it into the 'dead' position and not have any indication when starting from cold that the engine has got too hot too quickly (ie fan failure). Useful to have a spare indicator switch, although I've found that Main/Dip switch is the most likely to get broken (by getting hooked in trouser bottoms when getting in the car 😳). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted March 6, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted March 6, 2012 I find the 3 position switch (indicator type) to be better. There is "sticktion" with the gauges and allowing the needle to drop for a second or two seems to produce a more accurate reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 i like the idea of the indicator switch (thanks sm25t) chris,i will check out the gulf beauty wiring when i see you next meet. Aeroscreens,i do have a raceline sump & think thats a great solution! Ive got a normal water sender (same one i have in the engine) is that the right one?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil66 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Quoting Paul Richards: I find the 3 position switch (indicator type) to be better. There is "sticktion" with the gauges and allowing the needle to drop for a second or two seems to produce a more accurate reading. The official terminology is hysteresis - this is the tendency of the reading to lag behind the measurement and in accurate gauge systems is measured itself.... The way to eliminate hysteresis in classical dial gauges is just to knock the gauge gently a few times.. I guess most people will have seen this with their parents / grandparents tapping dial type barometers 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Zetec, The oil and water senders for VDO gauge are the same i.e. like this one Pete at Raceline recommended that it went in the finger filter plug and this was tapped by Raceline for me as part of the original conversion. I know others have fitted it in the sump plug and it works just as well. The only problem you now have is something else to worry about! For years I drove my x/flow blissfully ignorant of the oil temp. With the gauge on the Zetec I noticed that on long journeys and heavy blatting the temp was rising to 110-115c. So I have used the oil cooler from the x/flow and that keeps it at a steady 85-95c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Quoting Aeroscreens: The oil and water senders for VDO gauge are the same i.e. like this one Yes but remember there is a different sender for each of the two VDO gauges The 120ºC VDO gauge requires part number 323-095 The 130ºC VDO gauge requires part number 323-057 Like Chris I put mine in the finger filter plug as there was more metal to play with and less faffing about when draining the oil. D & M engineering in Tongham tapped it (1/8”NPT) for me, but remember the sender has a slightly tapered thread . Quoting Aeroscreens: With the gauge on the Zetec I noticed that on long journeys and heavy blatting the temp was rising to 110-115c. So I have used the oil cooler from the x/flow and that keeps it at a steady 85-95c Yes this is a bigger problem than most people realise (or admit to), I would say that fitting an oil cooler is essential. Like Chris my oil temerature would rise to 110º/115ºC at a steady 4000 rpm on the motorway, on track at Castle Combe it went over 120ºC Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Guy, Good point about the senders. I'd forgotten our chat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Sounds like some of you guys need an oil cooler here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I have fitted an OIL COOLER £130 all in, hoses, cooler, thermostatic sandwich plate and brackets from THINK AUTOMOTIVE Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted March 7, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted March 7, 2012 Quoting Neil66: Quoting Paul Richards: I find the 3 position switch (indicator type) to be better. There is "sticktion" with the gauges and allowing the needle to drop for a second or two seems to produce a more accurate reading. The official terminology is hysteresis - this is the tendency of the reading to lag behind the measurement and in accurate gauge systems is measured itself.... The way to eliminate hysteresis in classical dial gauges is just to knock the gauge gently a few times.. I guess most people will have seen this with their parents / grandparents tapping dial type barometers 😬 Thanks - Hysteresis - I'll try and remember that. At least you knew what I meant. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Quoting Guy Lowe: I have fitted an OIL COOLER £130 all in, hoses, cooler, thermostatic sandwich plate and brackets from THINK AUTOMOTIVE Guy Thank you Guy.....but mine's shinier than yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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