scooby dooby doo Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 I got my steering rack partly in bits now and I've got my new pinion and rack bar as well. The problem is how to get the old bits out and the new bits in ❗ I've undone the big locknut and removed the pre-loading plate/thing. Then i pulled out the plastic plug, its a bit brittle so i've chipped off a bit in the process ☹️ Then i removed the cable ties on the gaiters And i removed the circlip around where the pinion enters the rack So - what can i see 🤔 Well not a lot of interest through the pre-load hole - just the underside of the rack bar not a lot of interest where the pinion enters the rack body - ie nothing shifts with the circlip out more interesting under the gaiters: the rack bar is threaded at the ends with a lock nut and then a bit jobby that the track arm's spherical end plugs into. The problem is that these 2 seem to be locked together. At first it looks like a small grub screw locking onto the rack bar. closer inspection appears to show that its just a dent a few mm deep that will prevent the lock nut turning... I need to undo this to get the trackrod ball joint holder and lock nut off so i can slide out the rack bar and put the new one in. I also need to get the pinion out. Any ideas anybody? confused *confused* *confused* HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawrence_Z Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 IIRC the bits that look like grub screws are metal pins that go right thru' and are peened at each end to stop them moving. They may need to be drilled out and new pins inserted on rebuilding. When you do get it apart it may be a good idea to drill and tap for a grease nipple at the N/S end as I have had problems with this end causing the rack to bind as it picks up on the dry alloy. Lawrence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 15, 2002 Author Share Posted October 15, 2002 ah ❗ could be ❗ cheers any idea of a handy source for new pins 🤔 or will any *decent* bits and pieces store have somehing that will do 🤔 HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted October 15, 2002 Share Posted October 15, 2002 You can tap the pins out with a drift. I've done it when widetracking my originally narow track rack. Fat Arn Visit the K2 RUM website See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 15, 2002 Author Share Posted October 15, 2002 I've had another look (its on the living room table y'see) and they *do* look like pins that have been peened. But they don't go all the way though... It may be possible to pull them back out (but looks *very* tricky) or i could drill them out. However, the new rack bar doesn't have any holes in it. Is the solution to drill out the old ones, get some new pins and then drill a new hole in the new rack bar 🤔 HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 When I got a 2nd hand rack I had to change it to normal track and had to do all this. The pins on mine only went down as far at the rack - so half in the lock nut and half in the rod end housing and about 5-6mm deep. I drilled these out and then it just comes apart. I got new pins with the new arms and I had to drill a 3mm hole in the new parts when I fitted them. I think I coul have just used the old bits again with with the new arms, but seeing as I had new bits - why not. I am still not sure how you will get the rack out of the casing though - I tried to do this, in order to clean it up and service it, but I gave up. I took the circlip out and then gave up. I think you need to press/bash the bearing out that the circlip holds in place and this will then let the rack pull out of either end. I chickened out at that point. Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 16, 2002 Author Share Posted October 16, 2002 Phil - I'm going to use the old arms... So I guess I need to get new pins. Sounds like the contruction is the same as your though. Any sort of steel rod of the right diameter should do so it should be easy to get hold of. Is it tricky to drill it accurately enough 🤔 ie at the right angle etc 🤔 how would you press the bearing out 🤔 you can't get at the back of it to push it... hmm... I wonder if titan will give me *advice* over the phone even though they won't give me *parts* (had to buy them from raceline)... HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 Well done for pioneering this Hoopy. Take some pictures will you and email them to me, as I'm going to to do this very soon. I'm also going to have some bronze thrust bushes made up, so if you're interested... Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 16, 2002 Author Share Posted October 16, 2002 i will want a bronze bushes as i chipped a lump out of my plastic ones with the pliers. not enough to stop it working but i'll always know its there... HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 And you wonder why I gave up 🤔 Was thinking... you need to get the bearing out of the casing - but you can't get at the inside of the bearing as the rack is in the way. So you need to pull it out - or have I forgotten how it looks already? Is there anything to get hold of - I can't remember there being anything. Drill and tap a hole M3 to get something to hold onto.....? Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 16, 2002 Author Share Posted October 16, 2002 Right then. I decided to ring Titan (who make the racks) for some advice. The following is fairly complete but i've not done it yet so its missing a few bits and lacks in detail in a few places. I'll update it once I've done it all. To take a rack to bits you do the following: You will / might need: rack bar pinion (8% or 22% ratio & ensure its the correct angle (60 or 70) for your rack) anodised disk (you will need one of these preload plug (you may need one of these, depends if you break it or not) o-ring (its pence, might as well) retaining pins (3mm mild steel rod) track rods gaiters (from caterham) All from Raceline unless specified - ask for Chris. Stage 1 - remove pinion undo locknut with 36mm spanner/socket undo preload plug with 5mm allen key lookout for the washer inside. remove o-ring from plastic preload bush remove plastic preload bush (long nose pliers accross the outside of it and plug/twist. GENTLY or toy'll chip a bit off like i did) remove circlip from where the pinion enters the rack With a punch hit the centre of the of the anodised disk on the other side remove pinion and one bearing - another bearing will stay inside remove old anodised disk - not sure which hole it comes out of yet. Stage 2 - remove rack bar snip tie wraps on gaiters and slid gaiters towards the end of the rack drill out the peened pin between each lock nut and track rod retaining thing undo lock nuts - its a spanner size i don't have so i can't tell you at the moment undo retaining things from rack bar remove track rods, gaiters and retaining things slide rack bar out the casing Stage 3 - rebuilding rackbar Put new anodised disk in apply high temp grease such as castrol LM to the new rack bar and slide it in fit new gaiters to track rodsif required reassemble track rods and screw onto rack bar check its on about the same amount as before and tighten lock nuts 3mm drill through the retaining thing and into the rack bar insert new pin peen the end (ie batter it so it splays out a bit and won't move) slide the gaiter back over and cable tie in place Stage 4 - rebuilding pinion put the pinion back in and seat the the bearings and teeth correctly refit circlip put the plastic pre-load bush back in (or use a new bronze one from V7 SLR) put the washer on top put the O ring back on do up the preload plug adjust - this is the tricky bit - its very sensitive to even a few degrees of adjustment do up locknut HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 Take some piccies Mr Hooperishstandingly. With all the rebuilds you've recently done, you could compile a Haynes "How to rebuild a Caterham" book by now. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 16, 2002 Author Share Posted October 16, 2002 V7 - I've ordered a new plastic bush as i damaged mine a bit. what this means is that you can have the old one and give it you your man who was going to make bronze bushes.... HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 Ok, that all makes sense. Let us know how it goes. One thing I would say is that the rod arms need to be done up quite tight. I did mine so that they were free to move and had no play in (when held in the vice) but as soon as I put the track rod ends on and put it on the car I had end float. So, all apart again and re-drill out 3mm bar... Doh. I ended up asking Caterham and Jez replied saying that they should be done up so that they can JUST support the weight of a track rod end, i.e. assembly them to the rods and then tighten it so that it no longer droops fully under the weight (off the car this will feel too stiff, but it is right). Of course, doing the lock nut up then messes it up, so it is a bit hit and miss and took a few goes at tightening - go past the point a little and that compensates for the lock nut being done up. Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 I think I see what you mean Phil. Cheers ❗ No doubt I'll be asking / searching the archives for info on setting the pre-load in a few days as well... HOOPY Membership Number 4136 R706KGU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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