Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

R500 engines


AndrewD

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just linishing the bearings is repeatable and it removes the potential for hotspots when bedding in new bearings. If damage to the journal necessitates a regrind, then you are limited to the availability of bearings for undersize journals. For the k-series, IIRC, there is only one size of under sized bearings available.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Linish: to give a smooth, clean surface to metal [from linen and finish]. ...

 

In practice it means very lightly and evenly going over the surface with a fine grade of wet and dry, using plenty of WD40 as lubrication and not letting it clog.

 

I looked into the nitriding thing and believed that a Doug Kiddie crank would still have a respectably hard surface from the nitriding if reground.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting.

 

Now that my head's off (again) I've been looking for potential places to improve oil drainage. There aren't any are there? I've read (and taken part in) the discussions regarding scavenging the head, but it always comes down to the problem of locating the pickup(s). As the oil always pools on the right hand side of the head, I wondered if the side of the head could be tapped and external oilways built into it which collected together and led down to the sump.

 

Seems a bit extreme.

 

Is oil drainage in the head actually a problem or just an nuisance when you take the head off and get oil all over your trousers?

 

Perhaps the problem is more extreme with the VVC head?

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Tricky to do", as in " might lead to you scrapping the head" or simply "difficult to achieve, but at no risk"?

 

But again, is it really a problem? Does the oil find it's way past the oil seals, or degrade them more quickly or could you simply ignore it and it'll never become troublesome?

 

 

Blimey, I'm dead excited about getting my engine back together again. Feels like it's been months since I drove it last. 😬

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tricky to do as in wallpapering your house via the letterbox, there is no real danger of terminal damage unless you are extremely clumsy or your name is Marston (tee-hee), I have just bought a very long (6 inch) carbide burr for just that purpose.

 

Oil pooling around the base of the seals allows oil to leech past the seals when the conditions or seals aren't perfect.

 

Oily

 

Edited by - oilyhands on 17 Oct 2002 11:28:18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll have you know that I've successfully wallpapered the whole of my upstairs from the letter box. I'm attempting the same of my neighbours house from my letter box tonight too. 😬

 

With regards to the seals, will I have to replace my current ones after next weekend's head-work? Obviously I'll have to strip the head before machining, but does this means replacing them too?

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any breather in the head will mostly inhale. This is good news. You can either put a filter on the breather or you can tee it from the catch tank. The difference is this:

 

Filter:

Catch tank exhales copiously, with significant oil mist coating the underside of the car etc. Full evacuation of acidic condensate from combustion products, so oil stays in better condition. More frequent oil checks are required because quite a lot disappears as mist.

 

Tee:

Catch tank vent exhales the volume of blowby fumes only. Acidic fumes are recirculated through the head and crankcase, contaminating the oil particularly when run from cold. Engine loses less oil.

 

I run with a filtered breather.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Factory decision comes down to:

 

1. Industry myth that a crankcase vacuum gives more power

2. Industry myth that a vacuum helps scavenging (in fact exactly the opposite)

3. Ease of implementation.

4. Some race teams with properly designed dry sump systems do it.

 

Even Neil at Pace gave me a story about alternative laws of physics that apparently apply. The symptoms of a vacuum in the crankcase can be as a result of good scavenging. A vacuum in the crankcase does not of itself mean that good scavenging is going on.

 

The only thing that gets the oil out of the engine and into the scavenge pump inlet side is a pressure gradient. If the pressure in the crank case is reduced then the pressure gradient to the entry of the scavenge pump is also reduced. If the cam cover is sealed, the only net matter being introduced into the engine cavities is piston blow-by gas. Blow-by gas introduced in the crankcase prevents the oil draining from the head at a faster rate than the oil is being pumped into the head.

 

Opening up a breather causes a draught to blow from the top of the engine down to the pickup. This assists oil drainage from the head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...