Roger Ford Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 My scuttle came unmounted, and I need to fix it. The vertical panel (bulkhead) has just two holes drilled in it, but I'm not sure how these should be mounted to the chassis. Don't think I can fit rivnuts, since there's a double skin of metal (the panel fits between them) and a square chassis tube directly behind. Pop-riveting would be easy, but would make it hard to remove. Which leaves self-tappers. Is that the normal way to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil 01 Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Hi Roger, Have a look at Jason Fetcher's build on the Caterham forum on Pistonheads I think his call sign is purespeed Regards Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Are you talking about how the vertical panel attaches to the scuttle at the top, or the chassis rail/alu at the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 My front bulkhead just sits in the groove at the bottom (no fixings at all), there are 2 M8(?) holes for attaching to the steering column tube, and the top of the bulkhead has just 12 x 4mm rivnuts where the front lip of the scuttle is attached. This means that if I need to get to the electrics, removing the scuttle is no more than a 10 minute job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 PS From memory neither the scuttle/bulkhead came pre-drilled.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted December 18, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted December 18, 2011 *arrowup* *arrowup*What Chris says is correct *arrowup* Except that the "normal" way of attaching the vertical panel to the scuttle is by 4mm pop rivets rather than rivnuts. Either will work, but likely to be a little gap if you use rivnuts. Edited to add that the vertical panel and horizontal panel are usually finished with a bit os silicon sealer. Edited by - Paul Richards on 18 Dec 2011 15:45:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 It's all been said now. As standard, the scuttle is attached to the bulkhead with 5/32" rivets (remember, this is imperial :-). I have replaced with M5 panheads/rivnuts. At the bottom, the panel just sits in the slot - sealed with silicon from the factory but mine has long been cut away. Because the bulkhead tends to have quite a lot attached to it, it is generally more difficult to remove than undoing the panheads above and just lifting off the scuttle itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Thanks, it was bulkhead to chassis I was worried about. I've already drilled out the 24 rivets holding the scuttle to the bulkhead, and replaced with 8 x M4 rivnuts. So it seems I don't have to worry about bulkhead to chassis, though I think it may need some fireproof sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Extension question - how's the best way to fix the scuttle top to the top dash hoop? On my old one, there were two popper studs for the tonneau cover, and these were pop-riveted through the scuttle top and the dash hoop. I'd much rather not have to drill out those rivets to get the scuttle off - is it possible to hold the poppers (which I'll still need) on with self-tappers? What size would they need to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Some decent sized alu rivet washers (or steel ones?) and rivets would do the trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Eh? What's a rivet washer, other than a washer you use with a rivet? How does that help me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I thought you were trying to avoid fastening to the chassis rail (I misread your post). I use self tappers for those poppers, think I use no 6 x 1/2.....basically whatever fits through the hole in the popper base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Yep, self-tappers for me. Been like that since I bought the 7 in 1999. Can't recall the size, but make sure you use counter-sunk self tappers to ensure the heads seat properly in the popper base otherwise the popper on the tonneau won't clip on properly IYSWIM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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