Ian Barkley Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 I have twice had to renew the brake light switch on my April 2002 car, the last time at scrutinering which did not help my 'focus' for a good qualifying when rushing to the grid at the last minute. They seem to build up dirt on the contacts and are not 'designed' to be taken apart and rebuit too often. Are there any alternative switches, lubrication or methods of treating them to make it more reliable? Thanks Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 Ian, im sure this is a daft question, but what does the 'brake light switch' actually do. (switch over on the left by the fuel guage yeah?). Im sure Ive pushed mine a few times, and dont recall anything happening... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 i'm sure you mean the brake PEDAL switch, if that's tha case "they are all like that" sir....... Martin MW 51 CAT Edited by - martin whitcher on 9 Oct 2002 23:42:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted October 9, 2002 Share Posted October 9, 2002 eh? is pushing this switch near the fuel guage supposed to test the brake lights are ok? or is it a warning light cleverly disguised as a switch, that will warn of low brake fluid or something? i could look in the build manual, but blatchat is the font of all knowledge... (and im too lazy. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barkley Posted October 10, 2002 Author Share Posted October 10, 2002 I meant the switch buried in the pedal box which is supposed to turn on the brake lights when you press the brakes pedal. The first time it failed I was accused, with some admiration I have to say, of not braking going into Gerrards at Mallory Park! But I was. It seems that I have to live with this or devise some radically new design to keep the scrutineers and eventually MOT happy. Thanks for your comments... Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 when mine packed in i removed it a sprayed it liberally with wd40 (into some of the small holes) gave it a good working over and it seems to hav been ok so far, this was after the mira sprint last June rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterS Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Granteuk i think you'll find that the brake light switch to which you refer should warn you if one of the brake circuits has just failed. But there is a possibility that the light in the switch could fail, in which case you wouldn't know about the loss of your brakes. So you can press the switch at any time, to test that the light in the switch is still operational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Ian. sorry for hijacking your thread. peterS. thanks for that. when i press the switch, the light comes on (but nothing else happens) if the light on the switch comes on on its own one day, then I should be worried right.... cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanB Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Very worried... 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmar Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 ICBW but I thought the brake test switch on the dash only tested the amount of fluid in the reservoir above the master cylinder. I think if the light come on when pressed that means OK rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 my car has no brake fluid in at the mo - as Im changing it.... i'll go push the button and let you know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 turned all the lights on, and pushed the button - did not light.... turned the ignition on - and it lit straight away, without being pushed...! it would therefore apear to indicate lack of brake fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterS Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 I thought there were two circuits, diagonally, so that you could lose half your system, but still have some stopping power. I'm not sure what happens if one of the circuits damages a pipe. Does all the fluid drop out of the master cylinder? If so, how does the second circuit operate? As you can guess, my technological knowledge is weak. ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 You don't get diagonally opposing brake circuits nowadays. They're always front/back. The switch on the dash ONLY tests the bulb in the switch. Pressing it is no guarantee of fluid level. The bulb will light on it's own IFF the brake fluid level drops below the mark. This is a bad thing. The brake pedal switch fails in operation because of bad aligning. It should be aligned such that the very small amount of slack in the pedal does not cause the brake lights to light. If the switch is aligned such that the slightest touch lights the brake lights, you may find your brake lights coming on and off inadvertantly. This will cause arcing and eventual failure owing to carbon deposits on the contacts. These can be cleaned off though, as described. If the alignment is such that it requires a LARGE push of the pedal before the brake lights light, then you may find the same problem is caused. You need to ensure that the switch is FULLY on when the brakes are used to avoid arcing. Flipping the little rectangular cover plate off the rear end of the switch can cause you to search in vain for hours in the back of RatRace's van for it as the spring accelerates it beyond your view. I would recommend doing this in a clean, uncluttered, open area. Preferably somewhere well lit and not painted black. Might also help to be in the same country as any potential replacement too. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 so, with sincere apologies for ian for diverting the course a little bit here, if the brake test light doesn't come on when pressed and you check the wires into the back of the switch, is it a case of changing a bulb in the switch, or replacing the switch ? j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Should be able to change the bulb. You'll probably have to lever the rocker out of the switch to get at it though. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted October 10, 2002 Share Posted October 10, 2002 Removed the level switch and blanked it off as the cap design is poor and leaks. Might remove the switch too... Less weight /Steve My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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