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Removal of front suspension - rookie question


StuB

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Have the planned the above as my first serious solo work on the car with the intention to get it cleaned up and powdercoated. Have been assured that removal is a fairly simple job but has anyone ever put together an idiots guide? Trying to ensure that the car doesn't spend to whole of the winter months with the front end in pieces!

 

Any advice appreciated (but please don't use any complicated words).

 

Stu

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I disagree - it's quite a hard job. The lower shock bolt is really small and tends to seize in - making rounding it off or breaking it a definite possibility (I broke it this time - I've rounded it off before).

 

The LH bottom wishbone bolt fouls the alternator, so won't come out without jacking up the engine (which may require you to undo the engine bolts - I'm assuming K-Series here) and the top wishbone bolts are awkward because you have to move the aluminium paneling out of the way to extract them.

 

And there's the brake cable joints to remove - which are non-obvious and tend to use unusual spanner sizes like 15mm.

 

I can certainly think of easier jobs.

 

 

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its an interesting job but fairly straightforward as Roger says above al,ost all of the front suspension bolts have their own snag 😬. But it realy is the reverse of the build manual.

 

the top tip I would give is spray penetration oil ( not wd40) onto the lower damper bolt and damper bush for about a fortnight before attempting removal- if you used copperslip to assemble it will all be ok.

 

I then use a cut down 30mm section of realy good quality allen key ( 3/8 if I recall) and then attach a 3/8 socket to gently undo in one smooth draw.

 

if the allen head rounds your realy stuffed ☹️

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I rounded one off, took the lower wishbone and shock to the local 7 friendly garage, and they drilled it out no problems at all *cool* It is a pain, but there you go *wink*

 

I don't find the bolts foul the alternator, perhaps we have a slightly different setup Roger?

 

The only thing I would advise on is the brakes - the lines go through the wing stays on standard calipers. I ziptied the caliper and wingstay to the body so I don't have to disconnect the lines. Another option could be to whip off the wishbones and put the upright back in the wheel, put a couple of nuts on, and prop the wheel against the car...

 

To pop the ball joint out of the upright, use the bolt and nut method - it WILL save you at least half an hour.

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Hi Stu

 

Give me a ring at some stage.

 

I have done this before and have correct allen socket for removing bottom damper bolt and a couple of other useful AF sockets necessary for job.

I could come over and give you some help if you need it. If I can do the job though, anyone can.

 

You have my number or e-mail me.

 

Stu

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It's one of those jobs that once you work out how to do and of course, have all the necessary tools, you can do it quite easily and quickly. I fitted widetrack on mine. I picked the nearside to start off with. It took me 10 hrs to replace the wishbones. *eek*When it came to the offside, I did it in 2.5 hrs. 😬 . Don't be put off. It's only a Caterham. Everything is in easy access. A lot easier to work than a Peugeot 306.
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  • 1 month later...

The LH bottom wishbone bolt fouls the alternator, so won't come out without jacking up the engine

 

I've just hit this problem again. Anybody got a solution which DOESN'T involve demounting the engine? My engine mounts were brastards to line up right, so I don't want to remove them unless I have to.

 

Next time, I'm going to take an angle grinder to the alternator before fitting it *mad*

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As for pushing the aluminium body out the way. I used sections of old 4litre milk carton to protect the skin whilst taking out the upper bolts. These can be taped the the body at the appropriate places.

 

Re-fitting the lower can be a pain as you need to get the castor washers in and lined up. It just takes patience and time. Do not try to force anything, it will all go back together with the right amount of wiggling and the correct angles found.

 

What year is the chassis and what engine do you have ?

 

Jon

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I've recently done all this, and the only niggly bit was the nearside lower wishbone bolt hitting the alternator. However, I found (with a bit of patience) that you can just about wiggle it into a certain position at an angle, that just allows enough room to remove the wishbone, by removing the forward pair of washers first, and sliding the wishbone towards front of car.

 

Lower shock bolts were ok, as I've had them out before, and liberally coated them with coppaslip.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Parts back from Kelcoat and nylon coating looks brilliant, plan to get them back on the car next week thanks to the help of Stuart147 *wavey*

 

Before I can complete the job I plan to relace the bushes and spherical joints, please see my wanted ad here

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  • 2 years later...

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: 
To pop the ball joint out of the upright, use the bolt and nut method - it WILL save you at least half an hour.

 

Sorry to drag up an old post, but I was searching for tips on doing exactly that (managed to bend my track rod end while racing on Sunday).

 

Can someone clarify what the "bolt and nut method" is please?

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