glasgow Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hello, all…. Haven’t been on blatchat for a while…. Now back again….. Hope you all well, and had great fun in the summer.. Now, the question…. Few months ago (April/May), I sprayed the underneath of the seven with waxoyl. Recently, I noticed the inside of the side “skin” of the car has got some grit stuck to it especially at the lower gutter between the chassis and the inside of side skin. http://www.flickr.com/photos/53629241@N02/6341954955/, http://www.flickr.com/photos/53629241@N02/6342702318/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/53629241@N02/6341952769/Tried to use a warm hose to clean it off, but no luck – thick waxoyl… Not sure what to do? I would like to respray the car with waxoyl this week but I think this grit needs to be cleaned first. Regards Ahmed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Given that these areas are quite exposed I would not treat them. Any water getting in will drain out under the skin or dry out quickly. Adding gloopy gunk there will just catch more grit and muck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 14, 2011 Leadership Team Share Posted November 14, 2011 Leave it as it is until there's time to clean off the old Waxoyl and replace with new - purely for cosmetic reasons. Best done in the summer when the Waxoyl will penetrate further between the chassis tube and skin - just wipe the old wax off. The Waxoyl is currently adding protection, the grit/dirt is on the surface of the Waxoyl. Removing the Waxoyl and leaving bare will be less protected. Bare steel + aluminium + damp is a recipe for corrosion. This will actually be a bigger problem where you can't see it on the underside of the lower chassis rail where the rivets are - your Waxoyl treatment will help reduce this corrosion even though it starts to look a little un-sightly. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Given that these areas are quite exposed I would not treat them. Didn't mean to treat that area - it was "unavoidable" splash while using the Waxoyl pressure can. Although I sprayed the inside of grot trap so i expect the same there as well.... Errm, did I sprayed it wrongly (should i have covered this area to avoid waxoyl splash?) Leave it as it is until there's time to clean off the old Waxoyl and replace with new - purely for cosmetic reasons. Don't mind cosmetic at this area, it is only me who see it (although it's adding wait to the car 😬 😬 ). My concern is the salt is coming to the roads soon - Not sure if the salt will also got stuck there or it will be melt when reacting with the waxoyl?!?! A Edited by - Glasgow on 14 Nov 2011 08:53:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Leave it on unless it's unsightly in which case you can clean it off with paraffin or petrol on a rag. Paraffin is better, less flammable. I wouldn't worry abou the salt sticking to it, Waxoyl has corrosion inhibityors and if you use your car in heavily salted conditions the bit that sticks to any wax will be the least of your worries. I'd leave it or add another layer. One tip - don't use your car for a few days after application - I once treated a car and then later that day we took it out in the wet. It all washed off. Given that the stuff is moderately expensive I was more than a bit unhappy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I disagree - I always treat those areas, but I use very 'watered down' Waxoil (white spirit). This allows it to get well into all joint gaps and keep water out. Works a treat! What you don't want is 'thick' Waxoil, as it won't get into the joints and gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted November 14, 2011 Leadership Team Share Posted November 14, 2011 I disagree - I always treat those areas, but I use very 'watered down' Waxoil (white spirit). This allows it to get well into all joint gaps and keep water out. and: Best done in the summer when the Waxoyl will penetrate further between the chassis tube and skin ... I'm sure you get the message now! Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Brown Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Heat the waxoyl in a bucket of very hot water before spraying to thin it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Welcome back Ahmed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Quoting David Brown: Heat the waxoyl in a bucket of very hot water before spraying to thin it out.Good tip . That's exactly what I did when I treated my R400 with Dinitrol prior to assembly. Works a treat. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted November 14, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted November 14, 2011 Wipe off mucky waxoyl and grit with white spirit prior to re-treating with waxoyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glasgow Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hi, Ian.... Paul, how're you..? Good idea as I don't fancy putting a new layer on that one.... Had a look underneath the car, still some waxoyl there. I take it I don't need to wipe it off before applying a new coat.... A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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