David Mirylees Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Any ideas on how to get a decent CRB (correct) pre-load on a 1988 chassied car? (old type with no pedal box housing/cover) cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Ah, a subject dear to my heart. 😬 If you don't have a pedal box, are there any other possible mounting points for the tensioning spring(s) near (that is, behind) the top of the clutch pedal? I'm not familiar with the 1988 chassis. Can you post a pic? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Amusing, thought I might find you in here John. I was going to find a link to your extensive respondes to me in 2009. But nothing like the man himself :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeandlizzy Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 John, can I have a copy of your article with pics on how to add the springs to standard chassis (mine is 2002) with a standard crb? This may very well help David as well,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeandlizzy Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Ah, nevermind, here they are -- had to go through a mess of threads: here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mirylees Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 John, Thank you for the help! Pic here Bulkhead - not a pretty sight but a well used 7 :-) I can fabricate any required bracketry but at first sight I can't see how I retain the "release" area of foot on pedal towards the upper end (level with the other pedals). Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Hi David, If I understand your "release area" comment correctly, there's no free movement in the clutch pedal as my mod takes up all the slack in the clutch cable. When you disengage the clutch, the tensioning springs hang loose and have no effect. As you engage the clutch, the springs are gradually brought under tension, and will apply the required 80N-120N pre-load when the clutch is fully engaged and the pedal is at rest. Looking at your pic, could you attach a little right-angled bracket to the inboard edge of the mount that supports the brake-fluid reservoir (where your speedo cable is tied)? If so, you could hook up the springs between this bracket and the pedal clevis pin (to look like this). If I've misunderstood something, please say. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Quoting anthonym: Amusing, thought I might find you in here John. I was going to find a link to your extensive respondes to me in 2009. But nothing like the man himself :-) 😬 Quoting jakeandlizzy: Ah, nevermind, here they areThe Photobucket images are low quality. If you want, I could send you the original Word document. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revin Kevin Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 David, No need for a bracket or second spring, just re drill the location hole for the spring in the pedal closer to the point at which the cable attaches, IE increases the mechanical advantage. Simple! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 *arrowup*That would certainly work IF the spring rate was high enough. But I think the spring shown in David's pic is there solely to take up slack so that the cable doesn't pop out of the clutch fork down in the bellhousing. Even when attached to the clevis pin, it's unlikely to exert more than 15N -- much too low. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mirylees Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 Thank you John - it all becomes clear now :-) The additional bracket for a couple of springs looks like a perfect solution (and for me the simplest) - just a case of sourcing the ideal springs to get the required tension then. I appreciate the offer of the Word doc. I'll blatmail you my email address. Very many thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Did something similar for another Sevener recently - he found suitable clutch springs in stock at a local car spares shop - designed for use on old Fords, I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 David, this is the spring you need (x2). Word doc on its way.Edited 19Jul17 to fix broken link.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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