Removing tapered bush from front upright

[andy couchman]

I've got a set of Arnie's rose joints for my front suspension and now need to remove the tapered bush that goes into the front upright as part of the redesigned set up. I've tried to get the old one out (only fitted a few weeks ago) but it is not playing ball. Have used wedge ball joint splitter and a hammer and chisel but it's not budging.

 

Any thoughts or do I just need to apply more brute strength or drill the okld one out (carefully!).

 

Thanks.

 

Andy

[jonboylaw]

Square peg in a round hole.... some square section tapered bar that will bite into the taper and then twist and pull....

[paul jacobs]

Andy, don't drill and no need to use a larger hammer. I learnt this brilliant trick years ago, it makes it so easy once you're set up with the correct length bolt.

 

I haven't needed to do this for a couple of years so may not explain it quite right, but you will get the idea.

 

What you will be doing is using a nut and bolt with the nut done up so that the nut is level with the top of the bolt, it is imperative that the bolt fits under the bottom of the taper, and onto the top of the hub, on my CSR a 2" bolt will do it, then just unscrew the nut and it will push the taper upwards and off, you really only need to move it a few mm to loosen it.

 

If I've described it correctly and it works, you'll kick yourself for not thinking of it yourself, I did! Let us know if you manage it 😬

[Billyboy]

Give the tapered section a few light taps with the hammer - if needed use a drift - don't be too happy with the hammer as its a casting! you need to shock the casting the taper is in - hitting the joint will do very little and a wedge type ball joint splitter just knackers up the rubber boot on the joint.

 

 

Paul Jacobs suggestion may also work better after giving the casting a few light taps with the knocking stick

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by - Billyboy on 29 Aug 2011 16:21:16

[Richard Price]

The uprights are forged, not cast.

They're very tough and will not fracture when hammered.

 

Andy, it may be possible to use two hammers, one supporting the top of the upright, and another hitting the upright on the opposite side.

 

[Jason Plato]

more force andy, wreck the rubbers etc as you won't be using them again, but don't hammer the uprights as you 'will' be using them again

also try some penetrating oil ...

[andy couchman]

Thanks all

 

No rubbers to worry about as Arnie's conversion does away with them and it was the new bush I was trying to get out to replace with an even newer one. Tried various ideas but had to use a bit of a destroy all approach eventually.

 

That meant cutting off the top of the bush, then filed the tapered bit until it was almost through then chiselled and hammered the bit sticking out of the upright until the remaining metal fractured. So it came away without damaging the upright.

 

Not sure my explanation will make it clearer but I think I know what I meant to say

 

Bit of a pain but now sorted hopefully

 

Thanks again for the ideas (and to Graham Ford and John French offline).

Andy

[DJ.]

Paul Jacobs said:

 

What you will be doing is using a nut and bolt with the nut done up so that the nut is level with the top of the bolt, it is imperative that the bolt fits under the bottom of the taper, and onto the top of the hub, on my CSR a 2" bolt will do it, then just unscrew the nut and it will push the taper upwards and off, you really only need to move it a few mm to loosen it.

 

I got this technique off blatchat, and it made the job so easy, I couldn't believe it.

I now have a bolt and thick nut carefully stored in the tool box next to the cut down allen key for the gearbox filler

 

Duncan

[EFA]

Just to add Paul's method will work fine with the std joint, but the bulk buy pins are hollow, so there is no surface for the bolt to purchase on.

 

Andy's decapitate and file/hacksaw seems to be the only method if they are really stuck. Be aware the issue for which the design was changed only effected 7% of supplied cars, and only 3 of these had the pins stuck so far as I am aware.

 

Cheers

 

[Billyboy]

Quoting Richard Price: 

The uprights are forged, not cast.

They're very tough and will not fracture when hammered.

 

Andy, it may be possible to use two hammers, one supporting the top of the upright, and another hitting the upright on the opposite side.

 

 

 

Give the taper a Good banging then - that will do it

 

 

It was from memory - either way they don't look like they could take too much abuse in that area so just hit em enough

[Englishmaninwales]

Just to add Paul's method will work fine with the std joint, but the bulk buy pins are hollow, so there is no surface for the bolt to purchase on.

 

It will work, I removed your bulk buy pins without damage using this method:

 

Undo the cycle wing carrier by undoing the lower nyloc and remove the caphead/washers/nyloc from through the pin. Pull the cycle wing carrier to one side. (This leaves a rim of the pin for the bolt to purchase on). Reinsert the caphead/ lower washer /nyloc. Wind the nyloc on until it is flush with the bottom of the caphead bolt. Insert the nut/bolt separator as described previously and the pin will pop out.

( I was expecting big trouble with this and it took me 5 minutes each side!)

[paul jacobs]

It sounds more complicated to do than it really is, should work most times. With Arnies hollow pins, would it not work to just use something to spread the load over the rim of it, maybe a large penny washer [or even an old penny, I've got one somewhere]. I'm glad you got yours off Andy, only sorry you had to butcher them though 😳

 

Paul

 

Edited by - Paul Jacobs on 31 Aug 2011 13:44:12