New car battery issues

[2slo]

My car is 5 weeks old and has done <700 miles so far. Went to fire it up today and was surprised to get the dreaded click click click. I was out in it for a decent blat 5 days ago so I'm surprised it's gone flat. I was thinking about what could drain it and the immobiliser is, AFAIK, the only drain on the battery. The car has a battery cutoff switch installed and I seem to remember reading something about it being okay to use this to prevent the battery discharging. Would that be the best bet or should I leave that alone and connect the battery conditioner, even if the car is only left for a couple of days in summer weather?

[tbird]

If you have a battery cut off always use it, immobiliser will drain battery to below starting power within 5 to 7 days

 

 

Tim

[Z3MCJez]

It should last months with the master switch off (mine has lasted all winter, twice, so far) but it should last at least 2-3 weeks when new with the master still on.

 

Jez

 

Edited by - Z3MCJez on 23 Jul 2011 19:26:41

[tbird]

The immobiliser that is being currently fitted seems to draw around 250mA (from previuos threads) here

 

so if battery

30Ah that will drain battery in around 120 Hours

battery cuttoff switch will isolate it so battery will last for months as above

 

Tim

 

Edited by - tbird on 23 Jul 2011 19:49:14

[anthony1956]

I just wrote about this issue, of new batteries and their failure, here

 

http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=206243

 

to save you losing the will to live, as it is in anecdote form, I am observing that batteries when new are either dead (or dying) on arrival or not. If not, then it's always something else causing the problem. Our thoughts follow this route: can't be the battery, can't find cause, must be the battery, buy another, oh now we have found the cause or the problem remains.

 

My solution? Add a hydrometer to the process; conclusive evidence whether it is, or is not the battery.

 

(so we should test them at time of purchase with both meter and hydrometer - easy to say of course.)

 

A Hydrometer costs only a few pounds.

 

edit: also in that anecdote is Ian discovering his starter motor is warm (too warm) when the rest of the engine has cooled, leading him to identify it as the device draining the current and from that, a wet (shorting) relay.

 

edit: I keep my cut-out key on my key-ring and insert and remove it in parallel with the ignition key. Always inserting the cutout key before the key and removing after it.

 

Anthony

 

 

Edited by - anthonym on 23 Jul 2011 20:34:53

[2slo]

Okay, thanks gents, so seems like a good idea to start using the cutoff switch. I guess the immobiliser will still have armed anyway when the ignition is switched off so it wouldn't be like I was leaving the car vunerable to theft.

Thinking back to when I last drove it, it was when we had that torrential downpour and I had lights, heated screen and fan on all the way home so that won't have helped. The battery couldn't have been too bad mind, 3 hours on the conditioner and it started 1st time.

Tim I haven't forgotten we discussed getting out for a pint. I'd be struggling to make the venue we talked about (childcare ☹️) but I do have a pass out for Wed 27th for the Church Mouse at Ch-le-St (NE7ers meet) any good to you? Usually some interesting cars & a decent pint of broadside last time

 

[tbird]

Arguably more protection a Thief would need to have a key or bypass switch and then the immobiliser, and then have a steering wheel if thats also removeable.

 

Thanks for invite I think its unlikely for 27th, no worries that you have child care commitments, Plenty of time in the future, CSR up in Skye at the moment anyway so it would be in Landy or TinTop,

 

Tim

 

Edited by - tbird on 23 Jul 2011 22:23:18

[Stu_I]

I use my cut-off switch as described but noticed that when i come into garage, switch off engine and then remove cutoff key, the immobiliser isnt armed. So when i come back to start the car, insert cutoff key, and ignition key, i notice the immobiliser is in the same state i left it... Un armed.

 

Meaning i can just start the car and go. Doing some work on the car yestrday, i noticed it does re-arm after some minutes, maybe 5??

 

Stu

[tbird]

Stu

which immobiliser do you have, proximity or plipper/fob

 

Tim

[Stu_I]

Tim,

 

I have a fob style immobiliser. Not sure what Mark has and whether it differs or not.

 

Stu

[2slo]

Stu/ Tim,

 

mine is the new type proximity fob :

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g480/2slo1/005.jpg?t=1311517216

which has to be placed on top of the transmission tunnel as close as possible to the red light:

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g480/2slo1/007.jpg?t=1311517285

The SBFS tunnel bag with net keeps it safe during spirited driving

 

Edited by - 2slo on 24 Jul 2011 15:21:50

 

Edited by - 2slo on 24 Jul 2011 15:22:31

[tbird]

With my proximity type fob if I turn of ignition (aerial round switch barrel), and remove keys the mobiliser arms with seconds, so by the time I am out of the car, sorted out gloves and wheel etc its armed, then just remove FIA cutoff,

when starting car put in cutoff turn on and immobiliser is still armed, when I first got the car I thought the Immobiliser was disarmed when I switched cutoff to on, but after some tests, ie keeping proximity fob well away from ignition I realise I was mistaken, almost seems like the aerial for immobiliser was super sensitive for a couple of seconds after cutoff was powered on .

 

Tim