BenF Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Folks, I'm planning on checking my 6speed gearbox oil level at the weekend and am also toying with the idea of replacing it with Redline MTL at the same time. First question - if cutting off a bit of 10mm allen key to insert into the plug, how long should this stub be? The plan is then to use a ratchet spanner on it. Second question - has anyone had any success with an alternative way of filling a 6 speed box. I know some 5 speeders have removed a plate from the top but I have not heard of this method with a 6 speeder. I really want to avoid having to put it on axle stands if I can.... Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydragon Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 You can fill the 6 speed up by removing the top plate. I modified mine by drilling/tapping/fitting a filler cap in the top plate so I can fill my gearbox without having to remove the top plate. I can't help you ref the allen key question. I don't use the level plug hole. I drain my gearbox fully via the drain plug on the underneath of the gearbox and then refill via the top plate filler I've fitted with the correct amount of Redline MTL. If you use two quart bottles of MTL this will correctly fill the gearbox, presuming it's been fully drained. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colindavies56 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 my build manual says, cut a three/eighths allen key down to 15mill,that is to the inside measurment,not the outside.if you see what i mean. cant help with 2nd question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks guys In fact, the answer to the first question should have been obvious. I am just wanting a short stubby bit of hex and I suppose if the 'short' part of the hex is 15mm as Colin says, then a stubby bit of hex approx 20mm long should do - to locate in the filler plug and then get a ratchet on the bit sticking out. Skydragon - this is the kind of idea I'm looking for but it means you don't ever directly check the gearbox oil level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Easiest way to fill the box once you have the plug out is with an easibleed. No faffing with top covers, funnels and bits of pipe. Simples 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Hi Mav It's the getting the plug out that I'm not looking forward to! I think I'll just use a bit of 10mm hex key and a ratchet spanner. However, ideally I'd like to do it without jacking the car up, which should be possible, but it doesn't leave much space underneath to move the spanner. My plan was to fill with a funnel and a long piece of flexible pipe. So are you actually pressurising the easibleed? You've still got to get the pipe from the easibleed cylinder into the filler hole... Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Best plan is to ut the car p on stands and wriggle under. Small piece of 10mm Allen key and a Rachet spanner are sufficientto undo the plug. Yes, I pressurise the easibleed, filling the gearbox from belownthe car (feed the tube up the transmission tunnel from underneath. That is unless ysou happen to have a gromet in the tunnel aligned with the filler plug on the side of the box... Edited by - mav on 28 Jun 2011 21:36:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Hi Mav I think I might have to bite the bullet and put it on axle stands. I'm quite surprised that people have holes in their transmission tunnel that can allow access to the filler plug. On my car (S3 chassis with 6 speed box) this isn't possible for two reasons: 1. There is a chassis diagonal on the side of the driver's side footwell which exactly coincides with the plug location. 2. Even if that diagonal wasn't there, the hole in the transmission tunnel would have to be near the pedals, in a location that's pretty difficult to get to anyway - although I suppose you can take off the cover on top of the pedal box... The diagonal location is a right pain in the 🙆🏻. From using some improvised go/not go gauges, there's only 22mm clearance between the plug and the diagonal! I've now found a 30mm long piece of 10mm hex key and I'll get it cut down tomorrow, hopefully then I'm sorted... Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redmax Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I'm only about 30 mins from you Ben. If you want to stick it on my (pretty low but still useful) ramp to do it, you're welcome to. Cheers Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Quoting BenF: Hi Mav I think I might have to bite the bullet and put it on axle stands. 2. Even if that diagonal wasn't there, the hole in the transmission tunnel would have to be near the pedals, in a location that's pretty difficult to get to anyway - although I suppose you can take off the cover on top of the pedal box... Ben How far front is your engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 2. Even if that diagonal wasn't there, the hole in the transmission tunnel would have to be near the pedals, in a location that's pretty difficult to get to anyway - although I suppose you can take off the cover on top of the pedal box... How so? Iirc the filler is not much forward of the lever... How far forward is your engine / gear box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I don't see what the problem is. Put the car on stands so the car is level, it's really simple. Get under the car & work out how much to cut off the Allen key. Undo filler plug & check level. A piece of 13mm copper pipe makes a good extension for extra leverage. Drain via drain plug in bottom of box. To fill get long piece of tube & funnel. Warm gear oil in hot water if the ambient temp is low. Feed tube down through engine compartment into filler. Place funnel on tube & fill. Replace filler plug & don't over-tighten. 10 minutes work?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 2nd tip: never drain gear oil before removing filler plug............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Make a filler pipe from a length of 15mm copper pipe with a right angle soldered on and a small bit of 15mm tube - it should just go in the filler hole and can be manipulated in from above quite easily. For me the hardest part of the whole exercise is getting the filler plug restarted in the thread - flippin awkward last time I did it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 How so? Iirc the filler is not much forward of the lever... How far forward is your engine / gear box? The engine/gbox is a standard factory built K installation with 6 speed box, so it should be in a 'normal' position. Maybe I've misinterpreted the position of the filler plug relative to driver footwell position. There isn't a second 'plug' on the RHS of the 6 speed box which could be mistaken for the filler plug. From what I can see, the drain plug is in a lower (obviously) position on the passenger side of the box and the filler plug is on the driver side of the box, higher up. You're right Mick, maybe I'm making a drama out of this unnecessarily. The problem is that whenever the car goes up on axle stands, I end up putting together a job list of things to do while it's on the stands and it ends up sitting there for a couple of weeks while I tinker with it. But then that is my own fault! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I wouldn't struggle with cut down allen keys, axle stands etc. Just take of the top cover and top up or refill, by the time you have jacked up etc you could have had the level checked & topped up. If you are changing the oil drain & refill. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter clarke Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Use the mike day method. Took me 30 minutes from start to finish including greasing the uj's and a quick check underneath. As in low flying write up. Simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Quoting Grubbster: Make a filler pipe from a length of 15mm copper pipe with a right angle soldered on and a small bit of 15mm tube - it should just go in the filler hole and can be manipulated in from above quite easily. For me the hardest part of the whole exercise is getting the filler plug restarted in the thread - flippin awkward last time I did it! That's a bloody good idea Steve 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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