Julian Thompson Posted September 26, 2002 Share Posted September 26, 2002 I found it really hard at Donnington to achieve proper entry to corners because I think my pedal setup isnt right. In terms of outright braking power I had no issue - but the amount of pedal pressure I needed to achieve this level of retardation was more than I could physically apply with my foot unless I ignored the need to heel and toe and just planted the brake square on! I reckon, therefore, that I need more "leverage" somehow? Or a stronger leg..... I have SLR/500 brakes, whatever pads it came with, and silicone fluid (not as good as the Castrol Racing stuff I know but I only do about 5 - 10 laps or so at a time anyway!), uprated race master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 I don't think you can do much with the pedal in terms of increasing the effect of pushing them. That would need a change in pivot point and/or change in length of the pedal. Could a change in pad not be a simple fix - a higher friction pad would need less effort on the pedal to generate the same braking force.. so mybe some Pagid pads or higher spec Mintex pads Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Edited by - philwaters on 27 Sep 2002 08:10:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAG Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 If I understand it correctly the 'uprated racing master cylinder' has a larger piston/bore size then the standard master cylinder. Therefore swopping to the standard master cylinder, with a smaller piston/bore, will reduce the pedal force needed in all braking situations. The only slight downside is that the pedal travel will increase - although not greatly as this master cylinder is designed for installation in Caterhams. This change will NOT affect brake balance! JAG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Fit some high friction pads all round such as Pagid RS 14 this will improve bite and the coefficient of friction increases from 0.45 cold to 0.60 at 700C with a mid optimum of 0.55 at 300C. I am told that High ratio peddles are available from Caterham as a last resort. Were you experiencing excessive and spongy peddle at Donnington? It was plagueing me all day, I bled the brakes went out again and the problem returned after a few laps I have uprated fronts , standard rears,big MS, Pagid RS14, New Castrol SRF fluid. I am puzzled why this problem persists? Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAG Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 The rear calipers used on Caterhams can be VERY DIFFICULT to bleed properly. The following procedure applies to all rear calipers with an internal handbrake system; Take the caliper off the axle (but still hydraulically connected obviously) and slowly pump out the piston with the brake pedal, then wind the piston back in - you'll need a special tool (available from most good accessory shops). Now bleed the caliper again. Repeat this process several times for each caliper, more is better. Tipping, tapping and generally shaking the caliper about also helps. Inside these type of calipers is the mechanism that allows the handbrake system to work - this mechanism can trap lots of small air bubbles that can be very difficult to remove. JAG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 The combination of race master cylinder and ordinary pads is causing the problem. Pagids will fix it. I would also not recommend silicone fluid and suggest you change it to Castrol SRF or AP 600 as soon as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted September 27, 2002 Author Share Posted September 27, 2002 Thanks Peter. I will do these things. Will it be okay to drain the fluid and go straight back in with race fluid or do I have to adopt some form of flushing? Where do I buy the Pagid pads from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashaughnessy Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 I believe it is very important to flush all traces of the silicone fluid before filling with the normal stuff, I don't think the two mix. I don't know the most effective way to flush though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 Julian, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that a system used with silicone fluid needed to be flushed through with methylated spirits before using a normal DOT4 or 5.1 fluid. I also remember a comment that Brake fluid and Clorox bleach makes a lot of smoke 😬 Though I don't know in what quantities By the way,got the Clifford kit,thanks for that. Fitted it last weekend. Not got a battery in the car as yet so I'll not get to test it for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted September 29, 2002 Author Share Posted September 29, 2002 Great - I must fit one of them to my car now I have no K immobiliser! Bloody fluid sounds a right job! I might just leave it for now and swap to the Pagid pads as Peter suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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