MikeW Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 After some faily heavy use ( but no knocks) I have some play between the steering wheel and the rack- the column moves but the wheels dont and it's not the clamp bolts.It's about a cm of radial movement in the steering wheel before the wheels move. How do I eliminate it? Thanks MikeW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alicat Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Mike Get someone to move the wheel while you follow the shaft etc. down to the rack, you should spot any excess play. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alicat Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 PS User name has changed was tonyl ❗ Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted September 26, 2002 Share Posted September 26, 2002 As alicat says follow the shaft down to find exactly where the play is. Assuming that it is in the rack you can adjust it out. You should have a large nut above where the shaft goes into the rack. This is a locknut for the adjusting screw which when turned will take out any rack backlash. Adjust with the wheels off the ground and do not overtighten. When finished check rack through its full deflection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted September 26, 2002 Share Posted September 26, 2002 It might sound stupid, but check that the rack is still firmly bolted to the cross frame. I've seen one that was loose and gave similar symtoms. Regards Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted September 26, 2002 Author Share Posted September 26, 2002 Thanks It is definitely play in the rack and I wondered whether that large nut may be some sort of adjustment-I'll give it a try. I normally do a spanner check most weeks so I know there is nothing loose as such. MikeW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted September 26, 2002 Share Posted September 26, 2002 I posted this a while ago. You may find it useful - especially the last sentence. If I remember correctly the damper button should have 0.002 / 0.004 endfloat. This needs to be measured along the complete used length of the rack in order to avoid preload (binding). The damper spring will keep the contact of the pinion and rack only to alieviate rack knock (not really relevant to a Seven. The bottom line, as correctly mention previously, is to avoid binding. By the way, one of the best rack lubricants is EP140 - yes 140, at about a 1/4 of a pint. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted September 28, 2002 Author Share Posted September 28, 2002 What size of flat spanner do I need to undo the locking nut? Don't seem to have anything big enough to fit at the moment. Thanks MikeW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberts Wallet Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Mike I think the large nut is around 32mm or there abouts. One thing to check is the condition of the ball joints. This has happened to me and I adjusted then re-adjusted and for the life of me couldn't get rid of the play and then when checking the wheel bearings (I'd just replaced the brake discs) I noticed that eh near side ball joint has quite alot of play in it. Just a thought Blue and Carbon Supersport T561 LKJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted September 29, 2002 Share Posted September 29, 2002 The nut is bigger than 32mm, about 35mm i think. While I'm here... my rack took some damage in my knock at cadwell. It is very stiff but non-graunchy around the straightahead poistion - even with the adjuster nut wound right off. I reckon the actual rack internally is slightly buckled. So - where can i send it to get it rebuilt 🤔 HOOPY R706KGU come to cam7 - we don't bite ❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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