Peter Carmichael Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Rightho. Everything is stripped from the big engine and ready to be crack tested. I have had every valve kiss the pistons and 3 valve heads fall off and get mangled in number 4. Never done crack testing before, so don't really know what's involved but my current view on what gets crack tested is: Crankcase Crank bearing ladder All through studs The hi-tensile nuts that hold it all together Steel baseplate 3 liners Crank (check for straight as well) All conrods All gudgeon pins 3 pistons Inlet cam (check for straight as well) Exhaust cam (check for straight as well) All followers (check for flatness) All spring caps My current view on what goes in the bin is: Head 1 Piston 1 liner All valves (in 19 bits) All valve springs - cos they were getting on All valve collets All follower shims I need to get: 1 piston, dished and balanced A full set of piston rings 1 liner A new head, ported and machined for the strengthened through bolts All new main bearings All new big end bearings New conrod bolts Does this seem about right 🤔 Edited by - Peter Carmichael on 25 Sep 2002 16:19:54 Edited by - Peter Carmichael on 25 Sep 2002 16:20:55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 I would also check that the followers are still flat faced as they may have taken a hammering when the valves were forced skywards ?? Also check that the cams are still straight , as these would have taken some force of impact too . Good luck with the build Peter , See you soon Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 25, 2002 Author Share Posted September 25, 2002 Alright, list amended and also remembered that it is new conrod bolts time for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Peter Why don't you have a word with the guy who's telephone number I gave you? He does this sort of stuff all the time and I'm sure would be able to give good advice. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 25, 2002 Author Share Posted September 25, 2002 Ammo, Right. Yes he did offer. I thought it would be polite to have half a clue before asking him direct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 That shopping list looks reasonably small. I am hopeing that is remains so and you get back to where you where. Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Don't bin the shims... A box of assorted shims is a jolly useful thing to have. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin Joe Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Peter I would get the heads checked too just to be safe. Also would get the block and heads milled to make sure they are really flat. Probably a good idea to get the crank turned too, belts and braces keep your pants up. 😬plant Cukes, Ban Cheese 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Peter, Don't forget to get the rods dimension and alignment checked too. I'd definitely bin the followers from the worst cylinder, but if all valves have touched, you need to check the rest of the followers too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Martyr Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Peter, Im a few years out of practice but your list of bits I would break down into three classes: 1. Bits that are too difficult to get reliable results on like bolts and nut which are simply replaced 2. magnetic parts that can be checked within an ultra-violet light tent using Magns-Flux techneque 3. Non-ferrous bits that you have to use dye-penetrant and developer on. The skill in spotting cracks using either techneque is developed with practice just like medical X-rays you have to know how to do it and what are the false clues in castings and changes in section. Fully machined items like pistons are easy on the skirts but ring lands need special skills. You can buy the dye penetrant aerosols and do the aluminium castings yourself so long as you take real care in the preparation and are not too enthusastic with the dye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 25, 2002 Author Share Posted September 25, 2002 Ammo's contact is doing it all for me using a combination of Magna Flux and dye penetrant. A lot of stuff is just going to be replaced out of hand. Can anybody here imagine how embarrassing it would be if I kept the followers and then one let go, having been given the above advice by RK. Adrian's first squint at the damaged piston prompted comments like: "that's not at all bad", "seen a lot worse" When he saw the fully counterweighted Doug Kiddie crank he said: "If it was my engine I would just give it a wipe and put it back in" I think I am reaping the advantages of having built it strong in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now