Front hub/bearing torq

[Delberts Wallet]

I've replaced my front discs (with new ones) which required me to totally remove the front hub assy. Not taking much notice of how tight the castle nuts where etc I don't know how tight they should be

 

Can anyone enlighten me 🤔

 

Blue and Carbon Supersport T561 LKJ

[stevefoster]

For an ali hub car.

If you mean the 4 hub to disk bolts then the torque range is 22-27lbft (they go into ali...). Do apply

thread lock to them.

 

If you mean the castelated centre hub nut then as tight as so as there is no play but the wheel rotates freely. The split pin can go through one of two different holes in the stub axle to allow you to get to the above state.

 

/Steve

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site

here

 

[scooby dooby doo]

argh ❗ you beat me to it steve as explore crashed...

 

but you're absolutely right. the two holes and 6 castlelations means there are 12 positions it can go in. do it up until it stops the disk spinning freely and then back it off until youy can get the pin in.

 

worth checking again after 100-500 miles or so as the bearings settle a bit. i expect you'll be fine as they're not new bearings though.

 

to check see if the wheel has any play in it by giving it a good violent shake.

 

HOOPY R706KGU what's a 'hood' 🤔 😬

[Delberts Wallet]

Thanks Steve and now hoopy, I did mean the Castelated nut. I seem to have it about right so I'll leave it be. Seem to have something loose though cos I can feel it when I brake to a stop. Maybe I'll ckeck the disc to hub bolts or even the caliper to up-right

 

Gareth

 

Blue and Carbon Supersport T561 LKJ

 

Edited by - Gareth Harrold on 23 Sep 2002 23:23:19

[sjwb]

Gareth, you may wish to consider the following as posted previously:

Please, please do not overtighten the bearings, the cups will be locally brinelled and possibly ridged.

The correct method (with the brakes out of contact) is to seat the assembly by simultaneously rotating the hub and tightening slowly to about 8Nm. Back off the adjusting nut to give 0.002 / 0.004 END FLOAT. The tolerance will give you the opportunity to find an appropriate split pin location. Rock at the wheel rim is an inaccurate method, use a DTI on the stub axle. There is a caveat to this in that with disc brakes, pad knock back can be an issue - so you may reduce the end float to ZERO (that must be an oxymoron!), but do not preload taper roller bearings in this application.

 

Steve B