Front end mod.

[John E]

I'm considering fitting the front top link mod to my live axle car. The mod is supposed to make the anti roll bar more effective. I know that Alan Dixon has fitted the kit but are there any other experiences of the modification.

[deanteam]

We fitted the top link and it works well in comparison to the orginal set-up. With the orginal set-up the anti-roll bar can slide changing the caster/camber during cornering. The additional top link is the cheapest way, the full wishbone can be fitted which may give more choice of ARBs also if you have the cast top link gives adjustable camber. We already had adjustable top link.

There is also less compliance during brakeing.

[TonyB]

This sounds interesting, will it fit a 1963 series two lotus super 7?

Where can I get more info?

[deanteam]

I believe it will fit to series II. You have to make a hole in the aluminium to attach the extra bracket that goes on the back of the anti-roll mounting position, which might cause you concern if orginality is an issue. I got the bits from Redline 01883346515, check with Mick my information.

 

 

[Graham Sewell]

I put the full double wishbone setup on my live axle Seven a couple of years ago. I haven't noticed any major changes inhandling on the road, but there again, I have not changed the specifications of camber or toe-in compared to standard spec. Nor have I changed the spec of the ARB.

 

The main reasons to change are either that you want to play with these settings or the front needs to be replaced anyway and the marginal cost for the upgrade is low.

 

Cheers,

 

Graham

[deanteam]

The difference on the road might be marginal if the front is already well set-up. Don't forget the original design was for a car running 4.5-5.5in 100 aspect ratio cross-ply tyres. The loads that modern conditions can put on to the front end are a bit higher. We find that that the new set-up has much better control especially for track days and sprints. The new set-up does in fact restrict changes to the caster. With the orginal system a couple of washers where the arb goes into the top link changed the caster. With the orginal system when the bushes are worn the car can pull to one side. The stiffer bushes are better.Camber changes are only really important if you are changing tyre construction.

[Edward Guest]

Having read the above with interest I rang Redline, they supply a kit which includes new lower wishbones which give negative camber (unspecified) as well as the additional top link.

What will this do to the handling, does it improve turn in, if so why is it not a standard feature?

 

 

[deanteam]

Edward, Sounds like you may have an early Lotus, which I believe had virtually zero camber. In those days cross-plies (tyres) were the norm. (Funny as today ACB10s are possibly the best for ultimate dry grip ) If you have the zero camber set-up and switch to ca. 2-3degree camber then you can take the advantage of radial tyres. You must realise that you have to put a hole in the body work to fit the half-top-link.

 

[Edward Guest]

Checked the car and it looks like it has negative camber although only from visual observation, is there an easy way to check?

I understand the need for an additional hole but is it worth the effort?

The car is live axial of about '86 vintage

 

[deanteam]

We have two cars in the "team" one with and one without the modification. The one with feels much more under control at the front, more stable under braking, more confidence, faster. The only reason we don't fit the modification to the other is the originality bit, Lotus series III '69, although when exploring the limits???, no, LSD first.