Chaz23 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 The 7 has just past her MOT again, however she did an advisary with "Slight free play in n/s front top ball joint" What are my options to fix this myself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted April 19, 2011 Support Team Share Posted April 19, 2011 A new one is £21 from Caterham and it's straightforward to fit. You will need a ball joint splitter though. If you count the number of threads showing carefully you should be able to put the new one in exactly the same position as the old one - if you don't you will need the camber checked/reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted April 19, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted April 19, 2011 What are my options to fix this myself? Not sure what you mean. If you repair yourself, It's simply a matter of buying a new ball joint and replacing it. Involves unlocking big lock nut on ball joint. Undoing the small nut on the ball joint. Splitting the taper joint to remove ball joint from stub axle. This is the "hard" part as taper is often tight. Some use various combinations of nuts and bolts to prise the ball joint out, but my preferred method is to undo the small nut partially leaving enough for joint to split without falling apart. I then use a ratchet strap (fastened to a sky hook [rafter in the garage] and the other end on ball joint) to put tension on the joint. I then give stub axle around the ball joint a good crack with a hammer. Space is limited, so sometimes I use another hammer as a drift. Then remove the ball joint and measure how many turns to remove lock nut or measure, to ensure new ball joint screws into wishbone same distance. Assembly is reversal of the above except that to tighten small nut on ball joint you may need to put pressure on top of ball joint to seat it on the taper. Achieve this either by standing on it (when wheel on ground) or using a ratchet strap to pull down towards bottom wishbone. I could probably have done it in the time it's taken me to type this. 😬 Edited by - Paul Richards on 19 Apr 2011 13:18:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 I think one of my old ones is serviceable... You're welcome to it for nowt. Easy to do, I use the nut and bolt method, nice and easy 😶🌫️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 It's not recommended to hit one hammer with another . . . I know, I know, I too have had no problems yet, but one day . . . Wind on full lock to get room to swing hammer, or get a suitable drift (1" square length of metal - I use a lump of brass). Might take several good cracks. While it helps to put some tension on it to pull it apart, it will split the tapers anyway. I usually hang onto the upper wishbone with my none hammer hand, so that ends up putting some upwards force on it - I too leave the nut on a turn or two, simply so I don't fall over backwards when it comes apart 😬. To tighten the new nut - spin up up fast with an air ratchet, or move a normal ratchet rapidly. I did once have to do a preliminary run down a suitable bolt to relieve one particularly tight nyloc. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Nut and bolt is so quick and easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Just done this, mainly because the rubbers were split. i unscrewed the nut under the joint until it was just coming off the thread, i then used a piece of ali tube that was around the diameter of the thread, cut this to a length to fit under the nut and on top of the spindle area, then as i undid the nut further it poped the taper out. worked a treat. I guess the ali tube could be substituted for a nut and bolt. i have found the best way to get the lock nut in a similar position is to take the old joint out with the lock nut slackened to a very minimum, then put the two joints together back to back or top to top and mark the position of the lock nut, then swap the lock nut over, best if you have a spare lock nut. Have found the threads to be inconsistent on batches of joints so think this can be a bit safer than counting threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 Thanks guys, several options to go for then but I think I will pick the tool to do the job as its only a few quid. I will most probably do both sides at the same time just to be safe. Bricol - Mythbusters busted that myth so not a problem about hitting one hammer with another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Save the few quid, use a nut and bolt. And save all the frustration of trying to get it to work P.S. Let me know if you want the one that just got replaced with Arnie's rose joints before it goes in the bin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now