julians Posted September 18, 2002 Share Posted September 18, 2002 Could someone please confirm the cylinder number of the tappets that you are measuring the lift of when you are timeing a pair of cams in using the lift at TDC method. This is on a zetec, but I presume it doesent make any difference as long as the firing order is normal. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted September 18, 2002 Share Posted September 18, 2002 Julian, where did you get your cam timings from? I couldn't find them anywhere . Normally cylinder no 1 is used, but to add to the confusion, the primary and secondary lobes have different timings on a standard cam. Assuming your's is a performance cam, does it also have this feature 🤔. Which ever way you do it, a sanity test is to check that you aren't more than 15 degrees away from standard. 99,000 miles so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted September 18, 2002 Author Share Posted September 18, 2002 They are piper cams, reccomended to me by Dave Andrews, he also supplied me with the timing figures. Its been set up for over a year, but I've recently changed the cambelt and I think one of the the cams may have moved slightly (engine runs fine, cant really tell any problems), so I was going to check it was still correct. Unless I'm doing something totally wrong, it cant be number 1 cylinder (ie the one nearest the cambelt), because they have no lift at all, and wont have for quite a while. I thought it was number 4,because that had about the right amount of lift at the right time. As an aisde how accurate do you need to be when setting the lift. Not sure if there is a difference between primary and secondary lobes, couldnt see an obvious one, but then I wasnt looking for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted September 18, 2002 Author Share Posted September 18, 2002 Just thought, am I 180degrees out (thats 180 degrees out on the cams, 360 degrees on the crank) . ie I'm looking at number 1 cylinder when its on its firing stroke, hence all valves are fully closed, but number 4 cylinder has just blown all its exhaust gasses out , and is about to open the inlet fully to fill the cylinder. Edited by - julians on 18 Sep 2002 22:33:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted September 19, 2002 Author Share Posted September 19, 2002 Back to the top. Can anyone confirm I'm right or wrong. Also, how accurate do you need to be, does .01 of a mm make a difference or is it OK to be to the nearest tenth of a mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 19, 2002 Share Posted September 19, 2002 Yes you are right. The biggest problems for accuracy are in getting an accurate TDC. You always have to crank the engine forwards to set TDC to take out any lash in the valve drive. 10th of a mm is 4 thou which is probably accurate enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted September 19, 2002 Author Share Posted September 19, 2002 Cheers for that, I'll measure it tonight and see if one has slipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted September 19, 2002 Share Posted September 19, 2002 Julian - not seen you around for a bit, you coming out to play at all before the end of the season? See X777CAT here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted September 19, 2002 Author Share Posted September 19, 2002 I've been at a few trackdays, Not sure when the next one will be though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE GILBERT Posted September 19, 2002 Share Posted September 19, 2002 I did my Zetec thus: 1, measure Crank Pulley Diameter exactly and make a perfect Protractor out of All Bran Box with a Line for TDC (from compass hole to edge) also mark on the Protractor the Full Lift Timing figures e.g. 108, 108 before TDC and after TDC 2, Make additional crank Timing Pointer out of Welding wire and fix under Cam Cover Bolt near bottom pulley. 3, Dial Gauge TDC on No1(after spending hours making custom mounts and extended Dial Gage rods) 4, Fix Protractor to Crank Pulley with Double sided Sticky so the TDC mark is near the top 5, Align Timing Pointer with the TDC mark on the Protractor at Very close Proximity to Pulley/Protractor. Use Pliers for this. U now have an accurate TDC Mark!! 6, Rotate Engine(normal direction) 7, Dial gauge Inlet and Exhaust cams from Valve Caps (after spending hours making custom mounts and extended Dial Gage rods) 8, If needed loosen Cam Pulleys (after going out and spending £30 on a big spline drive set) and re-set so full lift at Cams exactly matches the Protractor Markings/TDC Pointer (this will be repeated many times to get right plus lots of phone calls to all your engine building friends) 9, Reassemble and **** self as you turn the Key Joking aside I spent only an evening doing this and found a noticeable amount of Power and totally changed engine note. The camshafts had been installed using the Ford 5mm plate method and were In 106 before, EX 116 after when they should have been 108/108 Enjoy, but don't take my advice for anything. See My Zetec Power 7 Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted September 19, 2002 Share Posted September 19, 2002 Drop me a mail, I have a new toy so will be doing a couple of track days if the weather stays good. See X777CAT here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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