BenF Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I've been checking over my 7 in preparation for the MoT. One of the front hubs has a small amount of play in it. I've removed the outer bearing, cleaned, regreased and reassembled. If I do up the castellated nut finger tight, there is no play. If I then back it off one notch, there is a very small amount of play. I guess it makes sense to replace this bearing.... or am I being paranoid? I had a bad experience once with a wheel bearing failure on a 1984 Passat.... Does anyone know of somewhere local to Milton Keynes where I can get the bearing kit? I am sure had this discussion at a NOBB meeting a while back, but can't remember the details. My car's from early 2003 but appears to have the older bearing spec, from looking at pictures on Caterham Parts. Thanks, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Do you realise there are two holes in that small stub axle ? Look at 90 degrees to the one you are using. I didn't find mine for a year or more ! Gives more adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 No, I didn't realise! I'll have a look when I get home tonight. Half way between finger tight and the current position should be ideal. Could be spot on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 It is a very small hole, and full of black grease, so not easy to find ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mirylees Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 There's actually supposed to be a small amount of play - see the articles in recent Low Flying articles covering this. (at least on trunnion type upright vehicles) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 There is nothing wrong with that bearing at all, on the basis of your description. It's purely adjustment. As others say there are 2 holes and IME the MoT is not normally strict to the point of the last castellation. There is after all supposed to be a very small amount of endfloat, that's why taper rollers are used as they are tolerant to being used in this manner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have read the LowFlying article on wheel bearings and agree that a small amount of play is acceptable. However, considering that all three other wheels do not exhibit any kind of play, I'd say that this bearing is slightly on the loose side. I'll try the other hole and see if that gives the find adjustment that is needed. My experience with bearings in other applications (mainly bicycles) is that once play can be detected by the user, it tends to increase.... so even if the bearing is OK for now, it could be a candidate for replacement in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Hi Ben A small amount of play is normal.....Try to find second hole but the there is a lot of rotation of the nut to find it. If you examined the outer bearing taper face when you cleaned it and the finish looks good (no pitting or signs of running hot) it should be ok. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Folks, An update on this - I did some more playing with the front wheel bearing today - i found the second hole and finished the adjustment. With the wheel back on, it's a lot easier to feel play in the bearings - and even though the bearing is done up tighter than before (finger tight then backed off to the nearest hole - which is only about 1/20 turn less than finger tight), it feels to me like there's still too much play - and that it's maybe coming from the inner race. Anyway, the 7 is off for it's MoT next Saturday so I'll see what happens. If anyone can recommend somewhere close to Milton Keynes where I can get a bearing kit, that would be useful. Otherwise, I'll order it from CC or Rimmer Bros. Any tips on doing the front wheel bearing replacement would be appreciated. Apart from a bearing puller, are there any other out of the ordinary tools needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 You don't need a bearing puller. Just a square drift and hammer. I found the square bar from inside an internal door handle was ideal. Have described it all in a Tech Talk post. try a search. Fitting the felt seal can be soul destroying. In the end I found the best way was to lay it on the hub (after the bearing was fitted !!) metal side on the hub and felt upwards. Lay a piece of wood across it and hit it hard right in the middle with a big hammer. Of you try and mess about trying gently to tap it in squarely one side at a time you will end up deforming the metal cup. Been there, done that ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Well just to end the story. The 7 was Mot'd today and passed. I asked the tester to check the play in the offending wheel bearing to see what he thought and he said it was fine. So it looks like I was over-reacting to the whole thing. Thanks everyone, particularly SM25T Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 😶🌫️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted October 5, 2023 Share Posted October 5, 2023 Could anyone point me to the LF article on wheel bearings referenced in post #6 please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanRo Posted October 5, 2023 Share Posted October 5, 2023 Hi SteveIn the website menu, go to Guides > Maintenance > Front Hubs, Lack of Lubrication. I didn't check #6 post but I assume the LF article will be the same as this excellent guide by Geoff Brown. Not a difficult job, hardest thing is removing the split pin I find. CheersDan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted October 5, 2023 Share Posted October 5, 2023 Thanks Dan. I will have a proper look through it tomorrow but it looks great.Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 From another thread on the topic and put on here to help others. The tool for the caliper mounting bolts is specifically a Blue Point E12 external Torx TX 3/8" drive socket tool BLPTE3812. Other Torx tools may not engage correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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