myothercarsa2cv Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Been done to death I know Has anyone got pictures of a QED remote stat installation? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham King Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 moca2cv, I have done one on my K-Series, don't have pictures to hand but could take some later if you want, or you are welcome to pop round and have a look if you are passing. It is really pretty simple, remote stat goes into top hose, the 8mm bypass t's into the 16mm downpipe from the header tank to the submarine. Is there anything in particular you are concerned about. Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Williams Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I have some pics of a QED install, blat mail me and I'll return some to you. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks both! Adrian, YHM. Graham, thanks, as Adrian has pics already I won't put you out of your way. I was actually wondering where the T T'd too, and you've answered that! Figured it would go in the top hose, just wasn't sure what to do with the other hole! Have you had any issues with it at all? It certainly would be a lot easier to get at than the one on the block! I know a lot of people fit the PRRT stats, but that seems like quite a complicated fix when something more simple is available. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Williams Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 John YHM. No issues at all after two years, loads of heat cycles at sprints during that time and a trip to Classic Le Mans last year that was seriously hot. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham King Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 The most difficult bit is getting the old thermostat out, fitting the new one is easy. I think Adrian and I tee it to a different place. Think now sell a proper T-Piece for the kit, the old one was the wrong size (22mm, it fitted an Elise) but I got them to make one up of the correct size (16mm) which they now supply as standard for the Caterham kit. The only issue I have found is that the temperature does tend to cycle a bit before it warms up properly. I suspect this is down to a radiator full of cold water getting released when the stat opens, this causes it shut again and the water to cool down again. I have a Radtec that does overcool a bit anyway, but it doesn't last for long. Overall very happy with it. Any questions feel free to ask. Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 but that seems like quite a complicated fix when something more simple is available But not as simple as moving the 5/8" header tank connection from the submarine pipe to a tee on the bypass/heater pipe. Gets rid of the airlocking issues in one easy step for the price of a 5/8" hose tee and a bung to block the submarine pipe stub. This was MG Rover's (rather late in the day) fix which was applied to the MG TF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerrypike Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 had my QED remote stat 8 years, no problems at all jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Mr Locust, thanks - I had thought about moving the header tank. However, i'm not sure it will fix the age old 'stat-in-the-wrong-place' issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 MO2CV, I didn't move the tank Just one hose connected to a different position and the previous stub connection blocked off. However, i'm not sure it will fix the age old 'stat-in-the-wrong-place' issue wink smiley A bit more background. The recommendation was made to me by a former MG Rover Engineer who was responsible for the production sign off of a K series engined car project cooling system, the MG TF. Many of the K-series engined vehicles had a history of cooling ralated issues. It was suggested in response to my question to him, asking what were the best improvements to the Caterham coolant circuit to improve performance and relaibility. We reviewed the circuit and he commented that it was basically a copy of the original Metro circuit. Which incidentally was difficult to fill in production due to airlocking and had inconsistent pressurisation of the header tank. His view was that the PRRT was not worth the hassle and expense but that this simple modification greatly improves the system. A 'best improvement for least change/lowest cost if you are starting from here' philosophy if you like. It allows greater bypass flow from the head, of which all flows over the bulb side of the thermostat (the part that senses the temperature and makes it open). The additional flow goes via the expansion tank whether the thermostat has opened or not (original setup has no flow through the tank until the thermostat opens which it won't if it is airlocked), this allows airlocks to be self purged by the water pump delivery to the head very quickly. The water pump inlet is primed directly from the expansion bottle on first filling. The header tank being connected to the bulb side of the thermostat also provides a more consistent inlet pressure to the water pump inlet irrespective of whether the thermostat has opened or not. It also makes the system less sensitive to whether the additional pressure drop of the heater matrix is switched into the bypass line flow or not. Just a few ideas to consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 .....Metro circuit. Which incidentally was difficult to fill in production due to airlocking..... My original 1400 with the standard thermostat position was extremely difficult to fill due to airlocks, compared to my later 1800 engine with the identical circuit. This I believe was due the closed deck block/liner construction of the earlier engine. Now have a QED and this works well, and makes the coolant fill easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Malcolm, the key problem around initial filling is probably more to do with reliably priming coolant into the suction side of the water pump when all the flow paths from the tank to the pump are airlocked. Once coolant has primed the pump, purging airlocks is much more straight forward. The big question is whether you would have experimented with a minor re-plumb before spending £125 +VAT on the QED kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm sure there are more cost effective options out there Just a case of finding them... I think the states might be a good place to start! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm sure there are more cost effective options out there wink smiley Just a case of finding them... See my earlier posts Going back to your earlier point. the age old 'stat-in-the-wrong-place' issue Try to get away from that idea. Think of it more as a case of the age old 'piss poor attention to detail in the design of the cooling circuit but it works OK once it's bled through' issue. Remember, all the thermostat does is modulate the coolant flow through the engine coolant radiator. Provided there is adequate control of the temperature it is irrelevant whether it is located in the flow or the return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I looked at the QED option, and it appeared a bit more expensive than fitting the PRRT, which is an easy job to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Mr Locust, I'm seriously considering your suggestion. My car has silicone hoses and the t/stat housing to heater pipe is a silicone elbow joined to a straight hose with a tefen straight connector. Would it be ok replace the tefen connector with a tee and link the header in approx 3" along the heater hose from the t/stat? Also, where did you get the blanking plug for the submarine pipe? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Ian, after a poor experience with standard rubber replacements, my car also runs silicone main coolant hoses ie top, bottom (2 pieces) and 'J' hose. The 'J' shaped hose from the thermostat housing to the heater tapers gradually and runs to roughly level with the back of the block. Due to the taper, I avoided cutting this hose back preferring to use a 5/8" fitting at the end to guarantee a good fit. I just replaced the standard inline connector to the heater hose with a tee of the same size and then ran a hose from the tee to base of the header tank. In an ideal world the tee would be closer to the thermostat but in practice it has made no difference. The blanking plug was actually supplied by my colleague and was a turned aluminium part with a slightly larger diameter head and a bead profile on the diameter. Apparently a souvenir from the days of experimentation at MGR which was still kicking around in his desk drawer and gladly offered to support the modification to my car. Edited by - Mr Locust on 16 Feb 2011 23:43:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Mr L, mine should be easier as I used samco 16mm hose & elbow joined right near the t/stat housing. Cheers ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q Catcher Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Glad I found this thread. I'm thinking of replacing the hoses with silicone ones this year. My car's a 2002 1.8 VVC K-series. I do all my own servicing (e.g. replaced the coolant when I bought the car in 2008, no probs) but have idly wondered about the cooling system design. There are some basics I haven't sussed - like where's the stat, what's that alloy casing near the dipstick and what's the submarine you guys refer to? Anyway, main question is, can I do Mr Locust's suggested mod at the same time as fitting new silicone hoses, and if so, what hoses/components should I buy and where from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Ian YHM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 17, 2011 Member Share Posted February 17, 2011 Last year I bought a set from Classic Silicone Hoses and was very pleased with the quality and helpfulness. http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/ Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 VVC .... the alloy casing near the dipstick is part of the VVC cam control mechanism. The thermostat is in the black plastic housing near the bottom of the dipstick. It is where the big J-hose connects to. Awkward to get at ! The submarine is over the top of the exhaust primaries .... it is a black steel water rail that gets the hose to the heater past the hot primaries. The temperature sender (1-wire) and ECU temp sender (2-wires) are mounted at the rear end of it. Ian (another 2002 VVC SV owner) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I got the 3 hose kit from caterham and used samco for the rest. Tefen plastic hose connectors are useful (straight, elbows and tees). The heater can take a bit of thought as sometime no dirct replacements are available ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 The submarine is over the top of the exhaust primaries No that is the water rail. The submarine connects the J hose, bottom hose and header tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q Catcher Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks. I've now understood the submarine; I think the J-hose you (we) have got is shorter and doesn't look like the one in Mr Locust's photo; and think I can see the stat housing on the end of the J-hose, low-ish down near the front of the offside of the cylinder block. So if I blank off the top of the submarine pipe, does Mr Locust then suggest using the heater hose on the offside of the engine as the place for tee-ing in the connection from the header tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now