Geoff Wilcx Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Does anyone have any experiences of these:- K Series H Beam Rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 H beam rods - i would go for Arrow I beam rods - Carrillo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Carl, I'm aware of Arrow but given the price difference I was looking to see if any one had any experience of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Just the fact that they started spamming me would put me off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Arrow and Farndon make good rods, Farndon tend to be better priced. I have just ordered a set of those particular rods for evaluation and will let you know the outcome. A a general rule in life.. you get what you pay for and if something looks too good to be true, it generally is. I normally use and stock Farndon rods. The standard rods are good for 8250 and 230BHP with no real problems. Dave Edited by - oilyhands on 12 Feb 2011 22:11:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSA Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I am running a set of these Rods in my all steel 1.9 they come with ARP bolts the quality is very good They are mainly sold in the US, I have a lot of family in America and they all use them in their engines apparently a lot of very well known race engine suppliers buy them in bulk re - finish them and Lazer etch their logo on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Quoting BSA: I am running a set of these Rods in my all steel 1.9 they Is that a Scholar 1.9 - I'd be interested to know what power / revs are you running and what use are you putting the engine to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSA Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 YHM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Holy thread resurrection... Bored, so trawling the archives. Oily, did you ever get a chance to evaluate these cheapo rods? I remember reading an article that pitched a Chinese turbo against a Garrett. Everything else was the same, and the Garrett destroyed the Chinese special in terms of power, but it was 3 times the price and the consensus was that for the man on a budget, it was still a decent upgrade. I'd be intrigued if it was a similar outcome here. They're still available (here) so clearly they aren't doing too badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 They claim to be good for 10,000rpm and 1000bhp - this is rubbish. You need to take into account piston mass, stroke, torque, etc before you can make a statement like that. In the days when I was building engines I would talk to Arrow and they would ask for piston mass and crank stroke; they would then get back to me and say "under these specific circumstances this rod will be good for X rpm with an X% safety margin". The reason that torque might matter is illustrated by what happened when an unnamed company tried increasing the boost on the Toyota engine in the Exige - beyond a certain point the rods simply bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks Roger, very interesting. Clearly there is some flamboyant marketing spiel in the mix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 any rod is good for that power and revs but only the once for half a second .... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I've not used these rods and they might be extremely good. It's just that marketing statements like that cause me to be extremely cautious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 The main difference between these rods and the ones manufactured by Arrow and farndon is that the cheap ones are a forged rod where as the others are machined from a solid billet and thus much more expensive to produce and are of course stronger. I have been using forged rods in my own duratec engines for years without any problems. You pays your money and takes your chance as they say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Crikey, they are getting really cheap now. I've not heard of any blowups with the Max Speeding rods, even though they are touted all over the internet and rebranded for various suppliers. The problem is that you never really know what you are getting as consistency is an issue for bits from the Far East for that money. Mine are doing a fantastic job keeping the bookshelf weighted down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Rob, Arrow / Fardon rods are forged too and then finished by peening etc and the ends machined to size. It's the forging process that gives the rods there strength by aligning the grain structure of the material if you simply machine from a billet you remove much of the strength. There are some very well respected engine builders using rods form Max speeding too which have been rebranded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 It took two or three goes to get a set of rods from Maxspeeding that were born dimensionally sound and that would fit the engine without fouling on the liners and oil rail. After much dialogue the original design has been modified WRT outline, bearing tang cuts, depth of cap and position of oil ingress hole in the small end of the rod. The design and dimensions are now satisfactory. I had a set assessed by someone who was able to perform metallurgical tests and they were happy with the last set sent to me and have used them in their engine. If the rods you buy are to the modified design then they should at least fit, I would be inclined to check them dimensionally (big end size and small end size). It cost me a small fortune to eventually get a usable set, but I have yet to use them in any of the engines I have built. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks Oily, very informative Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 7wonders of the world, All the con rods that I had made by both Farndon and Arrow were machined from Billet EN24V. I also stand by the fact that a machined rod is stronger than a forged one. As you posted the grain structure within the billet is key should be uniform and stay uniform as the rod is machined out of the billet. If however you squash material or forge it into a blank to make a rod the grain structure must be distorted hence a forged rod is not as strong. Also I think that the steel used to make a forged rod is different A forged rod will however be stronger and more ductile than a cast rod of the same section. Edited by - Rob Walker on 4 Mar 2014 09:13:01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 The point about a forging is that the grain flow follows the shape and pattern of the rod. If you machined a valve from a billet it would fail, it needs to forged to the approximate shape before machining. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Rob, Think your misunderstanding the process, having seen rods and cranks been forged the finished forgings are very accurate needing minimal finishing aside from journal grinding etc. If you machine from an un forged billet, irrespective of material tyre you are removing strength as the grain structure is interrupted, as opposed to being concentrated. Once saw the massive drop forge in operation at Ambrose Shardlows used for forging marine cranks - they could only operate it during limited daytime hours are they had complaints from people in Rotherham - the forge was in Sheffield , you jumped off the floor as the die dropped !! Edited by - 7 wonders of the world on 4 Mar 2014 22:28:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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