huwp Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 On behalf of another:- Anyone around wilts have a remote stat kit fitted? Will be fitting a new rad when the weather means the garage isn't arctic and want to fit one of these too but I'd like to see one first. Huw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micksmetafors Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Hi, I'm in Gloucestershire and fitted an Eliseparts one to my VVC car. It works well and requires only a little extra plumbing and removal of the original stat. I used a two outlet submarine pipe as fitted to I think Vauxhall 7's and supplied by CC to facilitate the stat bypass and filler hoses. With a Radtec radiator it runs at a steady indicated 82deg in all conditions. Are you looking to use the QED item? Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Escargot Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Steve Have one fitted (QED) and I live in Wiltshire near Trowbridge and Bradford on Avon - mail me if you want Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Even 82 degrees on a cold day? Or would a prrt be better for year round running? Or are you talking a out the prrt? Only dead fish go with the flow....! Edited by - CageyH on 4 Jan 2011 21:28:08 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted January 5, 2011 Support Team Share Posted January 5, 2011 Nick - could you get me a photo of your install please. I am going to install the QED kit and wondered how the bypass is plumbed in. Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Do you need the blanking plate, or can you just knock the centre out of an old stat? I am tempted by this, as my car overcools in winter, but I need the all the cooling capacity for summer. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 PRRT kit now fitted It seems to do a good job, even on a cold day of keeping the temperature fairly stable, by basically cutting out the radiator when not required. No more cardboard infront of the rad for me. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Just been out for a blat, outside temperature when I left of -2. Happy to report that the indicated temperature rose to 80, and stayed there, even slightly above the legal motorway speed limit in France. So, if anybody is in doubt, hopefully that will aid the decision. I am running a Radtec radiator, which is highly efficient for summer cooling. The addition of the PRRT now gives me a good year round solution, and is an extremely easy modification to make. The worst bit for me was removing the thermostat housing from under the throttle bodies, and behind the dry sump pump. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Has anyone fitted one of these to a 16valve Vx ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I have no idea, but the theory should be the same. You will probably find that there is a similar PRRT available for the vauxhall engine, as I am sure all modern cars use these to maintain a stable engine temperature. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Having said that, do you need to on a Vx? The k series has the thermostat on the inlet to the engine, where as I think the Vx has it o. The outlet? If so, why do you need it? Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Good point! I'm hoping someone will say whether there's any benefit. I appreciate the significance of the 'K' not seeing the overall raised temperature on the return line. I may have misunderstood how the PRRT works but, presumably, the standard setup almost totally stops water circulating around the engine until the thermostat opens. This could allow hot spots to form in the head and block. If the PRRT allowed the water to circulate but bypass the radiator, hot spots would be eliminated as the temperature would be uniform around the engine. Once up to temperature, the thermostat will open, allowing the radiator to control the temperature. I do have a small hole (4mm) drilled in the thermostat top plate so there is a small amount of circulation when its closed and this does help warming up. Maybe we need a 2-way thermostatically controlled motorised vale a la domestic central heating 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 Your assumptions on how the PRRT works are the same as mine. On the Vx, the thermostat will open when it needs to, as it is on the exit. So, as the water in the head warms up, the thermostat will open and close allowing control of the coolant temp. However, on the K the thermostat will open once the coolant temp has reached the correct temperature. If you have a efficient cooling system, this may only happen briefly. The PRRT bypasses the radiator, forming a separate loop (adjacent to the stat) until the coolant comes up to temperature, at which point the stat opens normally, allowing coolant to flow through the rad, just like a 2 way valve. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I was pretty sure that was how they work and I have no reason to believe that my Vx is getting hot spots. When reading the original and following posts, it occurred to me that the PRRT method might reduce thermal stresses on the block/head as the circulating water would ensure that the whole ensemble is more or less at the same temperature. Whereas, until the top stat opens, water isn't circulating, allowing the hot bits to get hotter and thermal equilibrium only occurring, if at all, as a result of heat conduction through the metal. As I say, I've never had a problem but just curious as to whether the PRRT might be worth doing. Perhaps a case of 'it ain't broke, so don't fix it'. Incidentally, for anyone thinking of doing this mod, Land Rover dealers do a better thermostat with larger return pipe for about £20 + VAT which would make the overall cost a fraction of the QED kit. Google PRRT for more info or look here. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I don't see what harm it could/would do. I have just fitted the grey Land Rover 82 degree PRRT. Cost: Thermostat £20 (Original part) Stat Blanking Plate £6 (Could have used an old stat, and punched the middle out, but it is still stuck in my other stat housing!) Alloy 32mm beaded T piece £12 32mm silicone hose (I bought a metre length, but used around 20 to 25cm) - £19 Total - £57 I could have done it for less, but it is cheaper than replacing a head gasket! Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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