Oily bits

[jpotter]

I wanted some help with a bit of an idiot type question, not having any previous motor sport or hands on high performance car mechanicing ability I wondered if someone could explain what the difference is between a dry sump, an anti cav tank and a bog standard sump ?

 

On top of this what is the best type of oil to use in a 1.6 K-series Superlight ?

 

Ta everso,

 

James

About to get oily

[Nick]

James, a dry sump involves pumping the oil to the engine from an extrenal container, rather than it being held within the crankcase (sump). This means the crankase can be reduced in size and sometimes, the engine can then be lowered, thereby lowering the centre of gravity. Moreover, it eliminates oil starvation that results from oil surge - with a normal sump, all the oil is forced to one side of the sump during heavy (eg race/track) cornering and braking.

 

An anti-cavitation tank (the optional Apollo) is a header tank of oil that works with a conventional wet sump. It does nothing to reduce oil surge but does separate any air from the oil, so that during oil surge, air is not forced onto the engine, blowing away what oil may be there.

 

A wet sump is the conventional system for holding an engine's oil, in which the oil is contained within the crankcase, underneath the engine.

 

As for oil types, a good quality mineral oil is recommended for the first 500 mile running in period; thereafter, high quality synthetic oil, such as Comma SynerG or Comma SynerZ, or Mobil 1. Needless to say, these are more expensive than your average oils but you gets what you pay for. smile.gif

 

Oh yes, the anti-cav tank holds about 7 litres of oil instead of the wet sump's 4 (I think), so oil changes get more expensive! I'm not sure of the dry sump's capacity but it may be between the two.

 

 

[Peter Carmichael]

The best oil for a 1.6 Superlight is going to be a good synthetic with an appropriate grade.

 

The 1.6 use hydraulic followers and it needs an oil that is pretty runny at low temperatures (0W, 5W, 10W). The engine never gets to the sort of stratospheric revs that require a 50 hot grade so you are looking for something like:

 

0W40

5W40

10W40 (This is getting to be a bit thick when cold, so I would preferentially recommend the above two grades even though the spread of grade implies they have more viscosity modifying additives than base lubricating stock.)

 

You will find Mobil 1 in 0W40, and all sorts of stuff in 5W40 or thereabouts.

 

Avoid the Motorsport grade Mobil 1 because the 15W rating is just too much for cold starts with hydraulic tappets - they will rattle and clatter because they won't be pressurising properly and your followers will get more of a hammering than they deserve.

 

 

[grover]

Re oils: Would this also go for a 2L Vx?

[jonhill]

Peter,

 

Would you still go against Mobil 1 Motorsport (15 -55) for a car that spends the majority of its time doing trackdays?

 

Cheers,

 

Jon

[jpotter]

Now I understand, thank you for your kind assistance.

 

James

[Peter Carmichael]

Jon,

 

Yes I would still go against the Motorsport Mobil One for a trackday car. It is over the top for the revs that a Supersport will turn (limited to 7600) so you might as well have the better protection from startup. The hydraulic tappets really don't like it - I bought 16 litres of the Motorsport stuff before realising it was the wrong stuff, but I have been keeping it around for the new engine.